Anyone modifying small ball joint upper control arms to big ball joint?

I know that in an old mopar performance book I have some where it talked about welding more material to the upper ball joint area and re-machining the hole to accept the big ball joint.

I just found these offered by speedway motors. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Bal ... ,2126.html

Now that A-body original big ball joint upper control arms are hard to find and the re-pop are over priced. I'm thinking of trying to install them on my 66 valiant. What do you think?

That sounds like the long way around. If you consider $45 reasonable look at these.

I welded sleeves into the original upper control arms of my '66 Barracuda and would do it again.

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Joshua

Did you compensate any by moving the bushing? If so out toward the wheel or in toward the bushings?

Thanks for the link. I did not know these existed. Its an option.

There isn't much wiggle room, but I moved the ball joint inward slightly for negative camber and rearward for positive caster. I don't recall if I also used offset control arm bushings, but its likely I did.

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Joshua

I didn't even know that option existed, thank you for posting it.

That said, I'm too timid (inexperienced in suspensions/alignment) to try it. But we know its doable!

I got some old arms at the junk yard and cleaned them up. They're pitted but only surface wise, cleaned up nicely. I was noodling for awhile on how I was going to get those old ball joints out with my pipe wrench and vise, then I bagged it....I bought the $15 socket (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sxt-10213/overview/), ran them down to my local muffler shop and he had them out in a few seconds with his impact wrench...way easier than me trying to fight with them. I'll have him put in the new ones as well.

bg

Just make sure that they TORQUE the new B/J to minimum spec when they install them.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

When I did this, I cut the towers out of the F/M/J arms that I got with the spindles, and welded them into the early arms.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Considering how good they were screwed in there, i figure the spec torque must be like 250 ft pd?
b

What is the torque spec for upper ball joint?

Also, I've heard people tack weld or use a punch and loctite on them, do they come loose very often? Seems like these things would never come off, as you practically have to use superman to get them off.

What do our board members do?

thanks,

BG

I suppose if the threads get messed up from the first ball joint, then later ones might come loose....is this a problem? I did note some little sharp bits left over in my threads when the ball joints were removed, but the threads look pretty good still.

bg

125 ft lb on the ball joint to a-arm. No loctite or other voodoo necessary. If they can hold the torque, your pretty much set. If they are tight but can't hold 125 ft-lb, then worry about welding.

It's normal to get a sliver of metal when you remove them - when the originals are installed they cut their thread, the arm isn't pre-tapped. It seems the aftermarket joints use slightly different threads. They will cut their own threads too, but when you remove and re-install aftermarket joints a second time they will go in easier.

Very helpful, thank you.

bg

I find they are usually looser going in as replacements, so I put little tack welds in 3-4 places around the BJ where it meets the sleeve, <1/4" long each. Minimize heat and wait to cool between each one.

Lou

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