Without going into a long story, my drivers side front brakes locked up on me the other day when I was driving at a low speed and I ground to a halt. Pulled the drum this a.m., and the rear shoe fell off (the cause of the lockup), and the front shoe is cracked.

1. Is it standard, when replacing brake shoes, to replace ALL the hardware (not the cylinder, these are new within 4 years, little used) that goes with the shoes? I.e., all springs, all clips, all retainers, etc?
2. Should I replace the wheel bearings? What do I look for to tell me they need replacing?
3. Are brake drums ALWAYS turned when you replace the shoes?
4. If not, what tells you whether they need turning or not?
5. If I wipe the inside of the drum clean and I run my finger across it, it doesn't feel grooved, but slightly wavy. Is this acceptable, or should it be totally smooth, no waves or surface imperfections at all?
6. Anything I need to be aware of (when doing this job) that isn't covered in the FSM, or is a trick I should know?
7. If I replace my brakes on the left front, is the right front automatically required to replace? It goes without saying I will be checking it for signs of wear or shoe-cracking/de-bonding.
8. Any special tools required for this job?
9. Any recommended brand of brake shoes that are better than others?

Thanks, in advance for replies. Need to take care of this as quick as I can.

1) Drum brakes need all the help they can get in order to work properly. New spring hardware is cheap insurance. Check the cylinder boots for fluid seeps- I've seen lots of "good" cylinders start leaking weeks or months after doing a brake job.
2)Look for shiny specks between the rollers= worn bearings. Also check the rollers & outer races in the drum for pitting or discoloration. If ok then clean-repack-new grease seal. (if you do change bearings, you must replace the outer races as well)
3)No, but I would have the diameter checked to make sure they aren't too worn (ie, oversize)
4) gouged or grooved inside drum surface, or "brake pulse" (a shaking feel to the pedal or steering wheel when applying the brakes)
5) I can live with wavy, as long as function was ok before.
6) Make sure the short lining (primary) is in front. Pay special attention to checking "toe-heel" clearance betwwen the new shoes & the drums- You will have brake lock-up if it's wrong.
7)Yes- always do work on both sides.
8)It's been years, but there are special spring tools- one looks like a funny screwdriver for the shoe to backing plate hold-down springs- second is a more common brake spring "lever"- on end helps remove the return spring from the anchor pin, the other pries it back on.
9)Haven't played with drums in years- no longer have a preferance.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Thanks for the quick reply.

One last question. There's a large spring pulled all the way around the outer circumference of my wheel drum (on the driver's side, haven't checked the other side). FSM does not show this large spring in their illustrations.

What's it's purpose?

your shoes are too getting hot
or faulty material/glues to the shoes

you know.. tighten drum till it doesnt turn then back off
how many clicks are you backing off

yes i have seen that spring thingy
leave it there for sure

I believe it is a heat disperser to try to even the heat of the drum

another chrysler
what a good idea at the time thing

Thanks. Was informed it's an anti-squeak spring.

Have a bunch of work to do now.

If the drums are wavy, have them turned. Otherwise the new "FLAT" shoes will just be touching the high parts of the drum, and you will have decreased brakeing effect, untill the shoes wear in to the drums (which will take awhile). Always do/replace the same parts on both sides of an axle, to keep braking force as equal as possible.
The spring around the drum, is to dampen squeel.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225