... from an '98 Mustang with a V6:



$250. 90 day warranty (as if I'll have this thing installed within 90 days).

Next up: Clutch and Pressure Plate selection, then clutch master and slave cylinders.

So, does anyone know if you can swap the input shafts between the V8 and V6 versions of the T-5? I can probably find a Mustang/T-5 with the answer, but I figured I'd ask.

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vm

I really like the ratios on that version of the T5. I seriously doubt you can swap input shafts as the input/transfer ratio appears different than the V8 box. I don't think the input shaft is too long as Mopar bellhousings are pretty deep. You may have to shorten the pilot bearing adapter, but that's not a big deal.

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Joshua

Congratulations. You are on your way. There are things you can do to either space out the pilot bearing or the transmission. Or, possibly cut down the input shaft a bit. Now you know what you are working with, and can start to plan.

Sam

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Yeah, it recently occured to me that I spent the last 6 years trying to find a V8 trans, when the V6 ratios might actually be a better match for my slant anyway.

The pilot bearing adapter is still the biggest thing I'm in the dark about. Maybe once I can see the back of the crank again, it'll make more sense, but by then I'll be knee deep into the swap.

When it comes time to measure to see what needs to be removed from the pilot bearing adapter, what exactly will I need to measure? Where does the input shaft and pilot bushing need to be in relation to the crank when I'm done?

Seems like it might be easier to trim the V6 input shaft to the V8 shaft length as Sam suggested, and trust that the pilot bushing adapter is the correct size (which it should be, right?). I know, I'll need to take measurements to confirm either way. Just trying to form a plan of attack...

I've got emails out to a couple of clutch companies about mix and match clutch/pressure plate sets. We'll see what they come back with.

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vm

The old, stock pilot bearing was a bronze bushing deep in the recess of the crank. The later ones were a bearing assembly in the torque converter snout recess. The later assembly was used in Dakota pickups, and the bearings apparently fit the slant crank. I got mine from Keisler, and kind of assumed they were the stock Dakota bearings, but maybe they were made special for Keisler. In any event, there is a range of lengths that will work because the old stock set up was much deeper. Do you have access to a slant that is out of the car. It seems you need to measure how these bearing placements relate to the bell housing trans mount surface, calculate the depth of your input shaft, and then you will know how thick you adapter needs to be.

It seems to me Lou had an adapter made for his pilot bearing to sit in the torque converter snout recess to space it out a bit. I may be remembering that wrong, but it is a thought as well.

Sam

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Nope. The slant in my Swinger is the only one I've got. Looks like I'll have to take care of some of this stuff mid-swap.
Yeah, Lou offered the adapters based on the specific T5 we planned to use. At the time, I was convinced I'd eventually find a V8 T5, so that's the adapter I went with. Not being able to look at the back of the crank and see how the adapter fits is what's throwing me off.

But in theory, I should be able to either remove the difference between the V6 and V8 versions (which is .67") from either the adapter OR the input shaft and be in the ballpark, correct?

I'll try and snap a pic of the adapter this evening and post it here for reference, just to make sure we're on the same page.

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vm

Okay, here's the pilot bushing adapter for the V8 T-5 Lou sent me:



I'm sure it makes perfect sense to the vets, but without looking at the back of the crank, I don't get it. Even if I press a pilot bushing into the adapter, what depth would I use? Would it matter? Is this held in place by the input shaft alone?

And, any idea what are the machined slots on either side of the adapter for? Maybe something to use while pressing in the pilot bushing?

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vm

Perhaps the slots were to hold the piece for machining?

Vynn I have a couple cranks out of engines. I will get you a picture so you can see what the back of the crank looks like. What is the diameter of your adapter? It should just drive into the back of the crankshaft.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

The metal bushing presses into the back of the crank and holds the Ford pilot bearing.

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Joshua

Perfect. Thanks, Joshua!

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vm

Yep, what Josh said. I machined the slots in so you could pry it out of the crank more easily later. You can cut it down (length) on a lathe to use the longer input shaft trans.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Joshua and Lou beat you to it, Rick, (well, before I could read it) but thanks all the same!

Good thinkin', Lou!


And in theory, I should cut it down the difference between the V8 and V6 input shaft lengths, right? I'll take measurements to confirm, just want to make sure I'm understanding.

My only remaining concern is how I determine the correct depth of the pilot bushing. Where should the input shaft ride in relation to the back of the crank? Once I get a bushing in-hand and place it in the input shaft, I'm sure I'll be able to see how they interact better.

Been emailing back and forth with David Norton at Specclutch about a clutch package with the Mustang disk and slant pressure plate. Stage 1 is good for 290 ft. lbs, and the Stage 2 for 331. There's a $100 price difference. I'm leaning towards the Stage 1, as my slant is pretty mild. Never dyno'd the car or engine, but I'm assuming my combo is still below 250 (Erson 270 cam, 9:1 static compression, Super Six and Dutra Duals) so 40 ft. lbs sounds like a decent cushion for a car I don't plan to race Anyone disagree?

I'm having a hard time confirming specs for this '98 T-5. All of the info I'm finding online stops at '95. That might be because there weren't any further changes or upgrades, which would be fine. But I did see a reference that there's a longer "sleeve" around the input shaft compared to previous versions of the trans, which has to do with keeping the throwout bearing in place, so that might prove to be an issue later on.

As always, thanks for your help, guys!

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vm

I would start at Spec Stage 2+ for a daily driver that will not see a drag strip...the clutch should last for 150K at that rate...unless spec has changed their quality control after Lou talked to them, they will not get any more of my money as i have wiped out their Stage 3 and 4 clutches at the track on less than 250 HP and a similar amount of torque...I also noted while researching that a number of mustang boards have noted similar failures and problems with Spec clutches in their rides as well...Too bad McCleod can't do something for this combo...

FYI...

Thanks, Rob. David at Specclutch quoted me the Stage 2 at $369, so needless to say the $289 Stage 1 sounded more appealing. I'm not trying to cheap out, but I don't want to buy more than I need. I'm on a tight budget, but I'd like to get this trans in before 2020.

I guess the stock replacement stuff would be ill-advised? I was coming up with around $150 for a slant pressure plate and Mustang clutch disk. It seems hard to find each piece separately.

Any other suggestions for clutch and pp?

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vm

My next hipo setup will a be a Ram clutch since one of our local racers is using one in front of his lenco...you might call them and ask...
FYI, when it comes to clutches it's best to go one step up, than it is to put in the low version then have to buy another one when it withers out on you...I can tell you that the Spec clutch comes with a warranty sheet that says you have to install it and break it in within 30 days of shipping if you hope to keep the warranty... Sadly, I got more mileage and drag runs out of the stock 9.25" B&B unit than any of the spec clutches I bought (total pay out about $1100 in clutches).