I have a 38 dodge pickup with boxed front frame and mustang 2 kit installed . I just bought a 67 slant to put in it . After noticing that almost all the 500 lb of the motor are on the right side frame rail I'm wondering if I need to do something to compensate for it and if the cars that took the slant 6 were made to different specks?

The right side of the slant six cars came with a thicker torsion bar factory. That means they were set up to take the extra weight on the right side due to the lean.

You may find that if you install the engine, the right side of the car sags a bit. The only way to compensate would be to strengthen/stiffen the right spring, or weaken/loosen the left side.

Or install the engine straight up, but that requries MUCH more work.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Evidence please.

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Joshua

+1. First I have ever heard of this. One might have to crank the torsion bar a bit tighter on the passenger side due to the tilt, but the weight of the manifolds hanging off the passenger side and the centrally located crank gets the slant fairly close to neutrally balanced side to side. That is why you can use those two bolt holes in the head next to the manifold mating surface to lift a slant almost straight up without it tilting around due to side-to-side weight imbalance.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Adding steering gear, especially with power steering, to the left side also even out the shifted weight from the 'leaning tower of power'.
We're talking LHD cars, the aussies may have some serious wight shift with all the steering gear on the 'wrong' side...

Olaf

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Aspenized

The motor now is sitting on blocks on each side of the oil pan where the motor mount bolts on.i have it leaning toward drivers side because it's to close to neutral balance if it sits as in the car. The head bolt holes for pulling it are almost directly over the pass side motor mount bolts.
I really want to get this into the 38 but it's going to be a very tight fit, firewall is going to have to move back a inch or two or the radiator goes into the bed.
I'll be looking for a stiffer spring for the mustang 2 clip or May bag it.

The manifold side of head is about center of gravity in north south axis, and that sits about 4â€￾ off center in a span of 24 inches between motor mounts in an A Body.

We can perform a little simple static point load analyses calculation:

Assume engine is a point load of about 300 pounds, it is 10 inches from passengers side engine mount, and 14 inches from driver’s side engine mount. Or total distance of 24 inches. The ratio would be 10/24= 0.416 and the other 14/24= 0.583.


Driver’s side load on motor mount is 300 lb x 0.416 = 124.8 lbs.
Pasenger’s side motor mount load is 300 lb. x 0.583 = 175.2 lbs.


This a difference of ~50 pounds between the motor mounts, and if you add in a power steering pump & box, and battery as a point load at the driver’s side mount the load are just about equal on each frame rail in an A Body.

This same relationship translates to your hot rod project. I don’t think you need to make any allowance for a difference of 50 pounds side to side as Mustang II has rack & pinion steering; think battery location. Keep in mind that once a 200 pound driver is sitting behind the wheel the weight bias flips to the driver’s side. And as a 220+ lb load of meat freight myself, I never once gave a thought to equal weight distribution in any of my rides; never. LOL

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thank you, Thor. ↑↑↑That↑↑↑ is an excellent illustration of why I don't hang around here much any more.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.