Here are a few pics of what a friend and I did in a couple days. Similar to what Doc did on his page. These are all mandrel bends from summit cut and pieced together. We used 3 bends (2 180's, one cut in half for the first pipe, the second half and another bend for the second pipe with a small wedge shaped patch connecting the two) and a final 45 at the Y output.

Working around the clutch linkage was a small challenge. The pipes at the flanges had to be put in at angles. The rear pipe was angled up to improve starter clearance. The front pipe was angled to the rear a bit - no patch here, just filled in.

Very nice work!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Ditto. Good job! I wish I had that level of fabrication skill.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. You have to remove the engine-trans brace to remove the Y-pipe, but that's small compared to the inconvenience of other arrangements. I planned to put the merge under the car, but could not fit the two main pipes through with the clutch linkage.

If I were to do it again, I would probably use 2" instead of 2.25" for the main pipes for more clearance. I would also like to move the muffler a bit (not shown), but that would require a few more bends under the car. I still may do that, but this is fine for now. The total cost of everything to and including the muffler was about $185. I have another $60-ish in pipes for the over-the-axle part, which is not done yet...

Isn't the one Doc built (Below) (2) pieces? with a clamp on one of the pipes? One of these is in my future!

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1964 Dart GT

Thanks for the compliments. I'm not sure I'd call it skill. This is our first exhaust for both of us. We MIG'd most of it, TIG'd the flanges to stop microscopic leaks (that would have probably plugged themselves up from carbon). What else... an abrasive chop saw and sawzall for cutting then a large disc sander for edge cleanup.

I didn't think the rear pipe was going to be possible without a bender but he was able to do it. I'll likely do my car the same way. May add a ball/socket or doughnut type flange at the end of the Y to make removing it easier.

I'm not sure if Doc's used clamps or not. The welding wasn't all that bad, there's a fair amount of clearance around things.

Looks Great! What starter are you running?

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Regards,
Fanie Gerber
It's never junk, it's just a part you're not currently using

http://www.valiant50.co.za
Just say I own a few Mopars

These days, I use a slip-fit and clamp on the front tube, for 2 reasons:
1) Easy removal of that pipe, if I need to R&R the engine.
2) I find that the "slip-fit" / clamp helps provides a little expansion flexibility and that helps the header pipe to manifold gaskets, last longer.
( My welded, single piece sets seem to blow pipe gaskets more often)
DD