When lowering the front end (torsion bars) what needs to be compensated for to preserve the alignment? Thanks

When you lower the front suspension, two things happen. First is that camber will change (go positive?), & you likely won't be able to get it back "in spec" without using offset upper C/A bushings are replacement tubular C/A. I seem to recall that most older cars had a positive camber curve as the suspension traveled through jounce.

Second is that unless you use a larger diameter T-bar (higher spring rate), then you increase the likelyhood of bottoming out the suspension on bumps & having the lower C/A destroy its jounce bumper.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Man, you are spot on with the problems I have encountered/discovered with my '72 Valiant. Wore out the inside of the tires. Did you mean, negative chamber? It's time to make a few phone calls and find an alignment shop that can correct my suspension settings. I also just ordered some new lower control arm jounce bumpers because..ahh.....well...they disappeared. You confirmed that my brilliant idea to adjust/lower the front end caused these problems.
Thankyou very much for your help!

You can cut down the lower control arm rubber bumpers to help with the bottoming. Make them somewhat of a wedge shape as they were originally. I have used a hacksaw for this with the bumper clamped in a vise. You are describing too much negative camber (insides of tires worn) and possibly the toe went to hell.

The alignment settings do not change a ton upon lowering by 0.5-1.5" from stock, and you can get them back with stock bushings, assuming the car has not been in a wreck or suspension is bent. If you have lowered it too much, then it will be tougher. You want about 0.5-0.8 deg neg camber, +1 to +2 deg positive caster (as much as the bushings/cams will allow), and 1/16"-1/8" toe IN. That should wear the tires fine and will be better handling and feel with radial tires. With the offset MOOG upper bushings, you can get more caster (+2-4 deg) and still have some negative camber.

The OEM specs are for bias ply tires and do not need to be followed.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Agreed!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what front end alignment specs would you recommend for a daily driver A body using modern tires? 15 inch rim running 205/60 tires? 1974 225 w/ac torsion bars?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

see above

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Ok, I'll go sit in the corner for failing to see my question was already answered.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I recall reading the procedure on adjusting the torsion bars themselves. Pretty easy process, involved a level place to park the car, a tape measure, a wrench and the ability to bounce the car's corner to settle the suspension.

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Yes, in the factory service manual. I do not consider the "jouncing" enough to settle the adjustment. I make an adjustment, then drive the car around the block, then measure again, repeat...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988