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| adjusting torsion bars https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55576 |
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| Author: | Valleyant [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | adjusting torsion bars |
When lowering the front end (torsion bars) what needs to be compensated for to preserve the alignment? Thanks |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When you lower the front suspension, two things happen. First is that camber will change (go positive?), & you likely won't be able to get it back "in spec" without using offset upper C/A bushings are replacement tubular C/A. I seem to recall that most older cars had a positive camber curve as the suspension traveled through jounce. Second is that unless you use a larger diameter T-bar (higher spring rate), then you increase the likelyhood of bottoming out the suspension on bumps & having the lower C/A destroy its jounce bumper. |
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| Author: | Valleyant [ Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
 Man, you are spot on with the problems I have encountered/discovered with my '72 Valiant. Wore out the inside of the tires. Did you mean, negative chamber? It's time to make a few phone calls and find an alignment shop that can correct my suspension settings. I also just ordered some new lower control arm jounce bumpers because..ahh.....well...they disappeared. You confirmed that my brilliant idea to adjust/lower the front end caused these problems.Thankyou very much for your help! |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can cut down the lower control arm rubber bumpers to help with the bottoming. Make them somewhat of a wedge shape as they were originally. I have used a hacksaw for this with the bumper clamped in a vise. You are describing too much negative camber (insides of tires worn) and possibly the toe went to hell. The alignment settings do not change a ton upon lowering by 0.5-1.5" from stock, and you can get them back with stock bushings, assuming the car has not been in a wreck or suspension is bent. If you have lowered it too much, then it will be tougher. You want about 0.5-0.8 deg neg camber, +1 to +2 deg positive caster (as much as the bushings/cams will allow), and 1/16"-1/8" toe IN. That should wear the tires fine and will be better handling and feel with radial tires. With the offset MOOG upper bushings, you can get more caster (+2-4 deg) and still have some negative camber. The OEM specs are for bias ply tires and do not need to be followed. Lou |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Agreed! |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:37 pm ] |
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Quote: The OEM specs are for bias ply tires and do not need to be followed.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but what front end alignment specs would you recommend for a daily driver A body using modern tires? 15 inch rim running 205/60 tires? 1974 225 w/ac torsion bars?
Lou |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
see above |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok, I'll go sit in the corner for failing to see my question was already answered.
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| Author: | 63Valiant [ Wed Jun 11, 2014 8:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
 I recall reading the procedure on adjusting the torsion bars themselves. Pretty easy process, involved a level place to park the car, a tape measure, a wrench and the ability to bounce the car's corner to settle the suspension. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Thu Jun 12, 2014 6:14 am ] |
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Yes, in the factory service manual. I do not consider the "jouncing" enough to settle the adjustment. I make an adjustment, then drive the car around the block, then measure again, repeat... Lou |
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