So a few months back, I installed the Standard LX301 ignition module, relay, etc. I followed the instructions here and bought the recommended Standard/Bluestreak module and coil. At the time, I didn't install the cap and NAPA Echlin MO3000 rotor or new plug wires. I left the old cap, rotor and plug wires in and it's been running great. Finally got around to installing the new Accel 8mm plug wires, copper contact cap, MO3000 rotor and regapped my NGK plugs to .043. To my surprise she ran like crap! Started it cold and at first thought it was just being it's usual cold start but after about 2 minutes of running rough, at around 1200 rmp, it suddenly ran smooth as glass for about 2 seconds and died. Started again, same thing. Run rough, suddenly smooth and then die. I've read about issues with the off center contacts in the cap so thought it might be that. Put the old cap and rotor back in and still the same behavior. After messing around for about 45 mins, trying various swaps, it lost spark totally. OHM check on the coil reads good. Voltage check going into the module reads good. Not sure how to volt check the coil and output of the module so hooked up the old Mopar ignition, original coil and regapped the plugs back to .035 and she fired up and runs good so I believe the dizzy pick up is fine. Why does the HEI module, original coil and the old cap, rotor and plug wires run good but the 8mm wires, new cap and Echlin rotor run like crap? I thought it was supposed to be an improvement? Thanks for reading and I appreciate any and all input!

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Leave the plugs at .035 and reinstall 8mm wires, new cap and Echlin rotor and see how it runs.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Thanks but I tried that originally. Wanted to make sure it would start before I went to the trouble of recapping the plugs. Started but ran rough. Then put everything on but still ran rough. Started swapping in old parts one at a time to see if I could isolate the problem. First, old rotor, new cap, new wires. Still rough. Then old rotor, old cap, new wires. No good. Then old wires, old cap, old rotor and she runs good. Only thing I didn't change is the new coil. She runs good with the HEI module but not having any luck upgrading anything else in the ignition system except the coil. Plugs look good and are obviously firing and combustion is good, nice light brown insulator and no crud on the electrode or in the barrel. She just refuses to accept an upgraded cap, rotor and wires. Odd.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Good testing procedure (process of elimination) but incorrect conclusion. Your sequence here points directly at the new wires as faulty -- could be multiple bad wires, or could be a bad coil wire "distributing" its fault to all six cylinders. You could confirm this by trying new cap, new rotor, old wires.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Test the resistance of the new wires and the center button of the cap to the center post

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks, Dan! The coil wire is good as I have used it with both the HEI and with the original Mopar coil, both systems are still in place and I can switch back and forth between the two by moving the coil wire from the old coil to the new coil, moving the dizzy pick up from the HEI to the Mopar circuit and unplugging the system not being used. I'll try your suggestion and repost results. Thanks, again!

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Thanks emsvitil! I know the coil wire is good because I've used the same (Accel 8mm) coil wire for both the HEI system and the Mopar system interchangeably. I'll check the new wires and see if there might be a break in one/all of them. They are braided wire core and I crimped them well.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

"and I crimped them well." Famous last words! It sounds like the wires to me also!

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1964 Dart GT

I didn't say I got it right the first time. Lol. First time around my crimping stunk. Then I bought a GOOD pair of Accel 8mm plug wire crimpers and second time around was much better. Remains to be seen though...

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

All right, so you got me doubting myself so I had to go check. All new wires show 0.00 resistance from terminal to terminal.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

All right, so you got me doubting myself so I had to go check. All new wires show 0.00 resistance from terminal to terminal. While I was at, I checked the cap and rotor too. All check with good continuity.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Double post. Sorry.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Any plug wires and coil wires that belong under your hood should show some significant resistance; your zero reading makes no sense unless you're using solid (metallic) core wires, in which case they are very likely causing your problem by swamping everything near and far with EMI/RFI, quite probably enough to interfere with the function of the module.

Also, resistance is only one plug wire test. It is not conclusive good/no-good.

Just what kind of new wires did you make, here?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/acc-4038 Did I get the wrong wires? They didn't list any 8mm wires for a slant. Since I don't have a radio I didn't care about noise suppression and I've always preferred solid core wires in my old Fords.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Then again they have the coil and ignition systems quite far apart. This is my first Dodge and I'll admit to having to re-learn a lot of things.

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"