Lower & upper ball joints, all four tie rod ends, idle arm, other drag link parts all replaced within the last 4000 miles. Now there is some kind of play in right front wheel that can be felt when hitting various bumps with wheel turned.

Today I was able to grab front tire with car on jack stands north / south and get very slight movement and a clunk noise with a lot of effort. Where I’m alone it has been impossible to tell what is moving while wiggling. This is same wheel that loosened its lug nuts on a 100 mile trip last summer, which when tightened seemed to be good to go.

I did notice one of the stud holes of rim was egged out a bit, but nut looks as if it can still snugged up without bottoming out on disk. In fact I think is has been like that since purchasing the car.

My last part to be changed out would be wheel barrings, but wouldn’t those show slop both N&S and E&W direction when tire is given a good manhandling? Or, because of give in the rigging east / west it's preventing enough force to be applied by hand, but when motoring turning will show slop?

I guess I have to get a manhandler assistant to perform the maneuver, while I feel around for movement.

Any ideas welcome.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

If you mean UP and DOWN, perhaps your upper ball joint threads are stripped, they are known to do this, come loose with the factory A arms. Some folks tack weld the upper in place to avoid this. Can you tell if the upper ball joint is loose in the threads?

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I had a ball joint unthread itself out of the upper control arm on my dart after replacing it.. it was on the way to a show... Stopped - removed wheel... threaded it in again and then welded in there for good.


That arm is now replaced.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Pitman arm?

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

I laugh at this only because most of us are on a 4' long cheater pipe trying to get them lose and yours are falling out.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I usually tack weld mine on factory arms. I did make the mistake of ordering tubular UCAs with balljoints "installed" and I forgot to check tightness during arm install. They must have just been snugged but not tightened. If I were selling these things, I would either torque them in, or leave them clearly loose to help the installer out. Both of them backed out a bit and clunked around until I noticed and tightened them securely. This reminds me that I want to put little tack welds on them sometime...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

OK, when I replace my uppers to the larger ones, I'll make sure to tack them in place to avoid any such mishaps....

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Recheck the idler arm. The replacements have nylon bushings that slip out. (my 2 cents.)

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Idler arm is good used non 1967 unit from Doc with zero play when chucked up into bench vice, UCA ais tubular and grease fitting position hasn't rotated.

North / South is to describe hand on top and bottom of tire when jacked off floor.

I'm now leaning to barrings, I just need to get an assistant wheel torquer, and two fresh D batteries.

As this is typed, a thought occurred perhaps, I should check tubular control arm's welds, something I did about 2000 miles ago last summer.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC