Quote:
I had a ball joint unthread itself out of the upper control arm
I laugh at this only because most of us are on a 4' long cheater pipe trying to get them lose and yours are falling out. 
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue May 05, 2015 10:28 am ] |
| Post subject: | Something loose in front end driving me nutz |
Lower & upper ball joints, all four tie rod ends, idle arm, other drag link parts all replaced within the last 4000 miles. Now there is some kind of play in right front wheel that can be felt when hitting various bumps with wheel turned. Today I was able to grab front tire with car on jack stands north / south and get very slight movement and a clunk noise with a lot of effort. Where I’m alone it has been impossible to tell what is moving while wiggling. This is same wheel that loosened its lug nuts on a 100 mile trip last summer, which when tightened seemed to be good to go. I did notice one of the stud holes of rim was egged out a bit, but nut looks as if it can still snugged up without bottoming out on disk. In fact I think is has been like that since purchasing the car. My last part to be changed out would be wheel barrings, but wouldn’t those show slop both N&S and E&W direction when tire is given a good manhandling? Or, because of give in the rigging east / west it's preventing enough force to be applied by hand, but when motoring turning will show slop? I guess I have to get a manhandler assistant to perform the maneuver, while I feel around for movement. Any ideas welcome. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Tue May 05, 2015 10:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | north/south |
If you mean UP and DOWN, perhaps your upper ball joint threads are stripped, they are known to do this, come loose with the factory A arms. Some folks tack weld the upper in place to avoid this. Can you tell if the upper ball joint is loose in the threads? brian |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue May 05, 2015 10:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a ball joint unthread itself out of the upper control arm on my dart after replacing it.. it was on the way to a show... Stopped - removed wheel... threaded it in again and then welded in there for good. That arm is now replaced. Greg |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Tue May 05, 2015 1:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pitman arm? |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Tue May 05, 2015 1:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I had a ball joint unthread itself out of the upper control arm
I laugh at this only because most of us are on a 4' long cheater pipe trying to get them lose and yours are falling out.
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Tue May 05, 2015 2:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I usually tack weld mine on factory arms. I did make the mistake of ordering tubular UCAs with balljoints "installed" and I forgot to check tightness during arm install. They must have just been snugged but not tightened. If I were selling these things, I would either torque them in, or leave them clearly loose to help the installer out. Both of them backed out a bit and clunked around until I noticed and tightened them securely. This reminds me that I want to put little tack welds on them sometime... Lou |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Tue May 05, 2015 5:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | tack welds |
OK, when I replace my uppers to the larger ones, I'll make sure to tack them in place to avoid any such mishaps.... brian |
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| Author: | Louise76 [ Tue May 05, 2015 10:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Recheck the idler arm. The replacements have nylon bushings that slip out. (my 2 cents.) |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Wed May 06, 2015 4:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Idler arm is good used non 1967 unit from Doc with zero play when chucked up into bench vice, UCA ais tubular and grease fitting position hasn't rotated. North / South is to describe hand on top and bottom of tire when jacked off floor. I'm now leaning to barrings, I just need to get an assistant wheel torquer, and two fresh D batteries. As this is typed, a thought occurred perhaps, I should check tubular control arm's welds, something I did about 2000 miles ago last summer. |
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