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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 3:02 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I finally figured that I'd run my heater hoses out of the way of the valve cover. Part of that was running them from the water pump, under the alternator, rather than over and/or around it.

If anyone is interested, Dayco 87792 hose is an S-shaped hose that is perfect to run the hose in this area.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... r.jpg.html

Here is one hose on the bottom water pump nipple. It looks close to the alternator belt, but when I couple it to the other end of the hose coming from the heater core it pulls it well away from the belt with lots of flexibility remaining in the hose (i.e. it's not distorted or anything).

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... f.jpg.html

At the firewall, to get the hoses away from the valve cover, I'm going to run Goodyear 63836's which have a tight 90 degree bend so they can run parallel to the firewall and over to the inner fender, rather than over the engine or next to the valve cover.

Brian

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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 3:58 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13058
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Nice!


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 Post subject: But...
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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At the firewall, to get the hoses away from the valve cover,
The 70's cars ran the hoses over the passenger side fender/wheel well and had a plastic "sling" that mounted to the fender so you could pull your valve cover without the hassle... I did what you did at one time, but found that if the hose isn't bound tight or run under the alt. the hose can slip into the belt and cause a leak...eventually I made an aluminum cover with some foam insulation to go over the hose in case of rough road, etc to sheild the hose at that location....

At one time I threw the belt on a high rpm launch and nicked the overflow bottle in front of it...but that is a different story...


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 Post subject: useful information...
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 5:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I'll make sure the hoses are securely fastened, but leave room for engine movement.

How much does the average slant move around? I recall we had a four banger, maybe a ford mustang II if I recall, and when you started it up the engine would rock quite a bit in those motor mounts before smoothing out when running....

brian

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PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 6:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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I'd like to see this when it's all done. I usually run straight lengths of bulk hose extra-long so they rest on the inner passenger fender. It works but the loop needed to accommodate the bend radius at the firewall is a bit big and looks ugly / still gets in way of valve cover removal. Keep track of all the part numbers and any bits you use to accomplish it.


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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
How much does the average slant move around?
Poly spool mounts or motor plates = none to marginal

Original or crappy import rubber spool mounts = enough to leave a carb stud dent in the hood on a hard launch with a well built slant

original 40 year old sandwich mounts = enough to smack the hood hard when you lead foot it off the line... and watch the engine bob around with an ignition miss like a boat on a rough lake..

:lol:

...and in the bottom two scenarios a radiator shroud would have been toast...


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 Post subject: Ok
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2015 10:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2132
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
Pierre,

I'll make sure to post pics of the final hose runs.

Brian

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