I am pretty sure that this topic has been covered before. How about one more time for kicks and giggles.

I have a '66 Dart that we are converting from a single barrel to a 4-barrel with Offie intake. Do I have to convert to a cable linkage? Are there any samples where the original fixed linkage is modified?

If I must convert,
What throttle cable assemblies will work with this? I have found a '68 Cuda throttle assembly but am not sure if this will be compatible. What years and body styles will work with my vehicle.

Thanks for the advice!!

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I have a edelbrock 4bbl and am using a Lokar 24 inch cable and there mounting bracket for the carburetor. I got a manual trans so no cable there. The stock cable was to long and binded up no madder how I mounted it. But this was on a D-100 so I dont know about your application.

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~Nic

If you have a factory cable style throttle linkage on your Dart, you can use it with the edelbrock carb. For a kick down you can use the factory Super Six two barrel linkage, if you can find one. Otherwise, you will need to convert to a different style of kick down (cable is easiest) and throttle linkage.

I used the gas pedal out of a '71 Dart and a Lokar cable on my '66. You have to drill a couple holes, and positioning of the pedal itself takes a little planning to get it where it is comfortable to use and get the full sweep.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I had an Offy kit that used the original rod style throttle rod to work a 4 barrel. I'll have to dig around and see if I still have it.
As was mentioned the 68 Cuda will work with some work. Otherwise an original 64-66 V8 (and 65/66 slant 6 factory AC) cable throttle set-up is an easy conversion after the mounting holes get drilled. I might have an extra set-up; will also have to look.

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

Just to clarify.

The car is originally set up with the rod style linkage to a Holley 1-barrel. I have a manual 3-spd transmission with column shifter.

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Are you just dropping a 4bbl on an otherwise stock engine?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Not just dropping the 4-barrel on a stock motor.

Took the 225 apart and having it rebuilt with new stock compression .060 over pistons. Rebuilding the head using stock size valves. installing a 244 street grind cam by Elgin (.435 lift, 112^). I have a Dutra Dual setup for exhaust. hopefully I wind up with something that has some pep and a little growl but is still good as an everyday local driver and durable.

Have not installed the motor yet but am trying to anticipate any custom changes that will be necessary. it seems to me from bouncing around this Forum and other places on the net that the throttle linkage is going to require some modification from the solid rod setup that came with the car.

Tell me if I have this wrong but it seems that ideally I want to locate a throttle linkage from a 64-66 A body V8. Not exactly easy to do unless you are patient. what I found so far is a 68 Barracuda but I have no idea how different the firewall plate and pedal brackets are from the 64-66.

That is why I am asking for pointers, comments and guidance on this thread.

thanks

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This merits some questions on what is being done, overboring doesn't add much displacement like the big bore engines...if the purpose was to unshroud the valves a little more .030 over would have been more than enough with stock nails...more compression and some porting would make better gains for a "peppy" engine....assuming that your machinist will cut the deck and head to get you well above the stock compression ratio to make the best use of the increased lift, bigger carb, and more flow through the head and less restrictive exhaust it will indeed be peppy....(better ignition and a recurve will get more out of it...), running a set of calcs....it looks like shooting for an 8.9:1 SCR with that cam advanced 4 degrees nets a nice 7.8 DCR, so it will run regular/plus and should indeed be a favorable increase in overall power and pep (but it's like a recipe, everything has to work together to get the best results...)

I agree with DI. With the other mods you are doing, you really need to increase the compression ratio.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Had to go 60 over due to wear on the block. Not my first choice either.

Had a discussion with the machinist about decking the head to raise compression and wound up with their disagreement on the matter. they felt the increase in compression would lead to heat issues with the iron head and ultimately preignition problems unless I was running super all the time. This project is just for the street and I did not want to pony up the extra gas money if I have a choice.

I honestly don't know if the shop is right on this matter. I notice on the forum that lots of people are decking the heads to raise compression. Some feedback on the heat issue would be appreciated.

If I am to raise the compression as is recommended above what amount should be removed from the deck height to achieve the target compression.
Now is the time to figure this stuff out while the motor is at the shop.

Thanks again for all the feedback.

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Heat issue? Nope. No need to run super if you stay within reason. You often have to deck things just to get to stock compression spec. There's been cases where people have ripped apart and measured a stock motor, turned out to be mid 7's static.

How much.... no way to tell without measuring and calculating. How far the piston is down the hole at tdc, chamber size of head, thickness of gasket used, etc all vary. You can deck the block too instead of the head, or some and some.

If everything is at the machine shop, have him do the measurements, and figure how much has to be removed from the deck/head to get about 8.5 to 1 compression ratio. He should be able to do this. You can tell him it takes .0066 cut on the head to get a 1cc change in volume.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

So far everyone is correct...and you won't get any overheating even with the stock timing (it's pretty conservative in most cases). Make sure that the machinist measures things correctly, and make sure the cam is degreed to 108 centerline (or 4 degrees advanced...since we didn't see your cam card, don't advance it if the cam is already ground on a 108 centerline).

My calcs were based on your engine having a deck height of .170 and a chamber volume of 54 cc after valve work and taking a cut off it, and using a felpro or victor-reinz head gasket.