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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:45 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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I'm looking for a Distributor with no vacuum or mechanical advance. I found this one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/381227633925?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT which might be what I'm looking for. Or would anyone have a distributor such as I described?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:48 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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Why not just remove the vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms from a normal distributor? You want a lean-burn ignition distributor from a 80s era vehicle.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 4:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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Why not just remove the vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms from a normal distributor? You want a lean-burn ignition distributor from a 80s era vehicle.
I have 2 NOS EI distributors and 1 recurved by DusterIdiot. I'd kind of hate to modify them. I know what I'm looking for is out there. I saw a post recently where someone has a pair of them from an early 80's - don't think they were for sale though. Just can't remember where I saw the post to follow up on it.

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 6:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I might have one. Or be able to piece one together from parts. Let me check my garage stash.


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 Post subject: The why and how...
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 7:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Why not just remove the vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms from a normal distributor? You want a lean-burn ignition distributor from a 80s era vehicle.
The 1981-1987 ESC distributors are perfect for this...

The simple reasons for going this route are:

1) the 1981+ unit has a single mainshaft and no "guts"...so clean it up and plug it in...

2) The vacuum advance pod arm has to anchor the advance plate from "moving"....you would have to drill the bottom plate and put a very long shank rivet through it to secure it, but the advance plate may "wobble" making things a little unreliable.

3) To keep the governor from spinning on the shaft it will need to be secured, trying to remove the springs and weights and welding the governor to the shaft might bend the top part of the shaft and create a bit of a wobble if not very careful, most of the "old timers" just take a mig welder to the mechanism and weld the posts on the weights to the governor....effective and ugly...


That being said...if it's a 15L governor from a 1973-1975 car distributor or a 13L from a truck, weld away...they are more common...if the governor is a 9 or 11L, please have to courtesy to pull the governor and springs and replace with something else....these are getting very hard to find in junkyards and reman boxes....


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