Greetings,
I've owned this car since last November, but am just getting around to starting a thread. Lots of projects to post about eventually...
Here are the first pics to give you a taste.









The small bolt rallye wheels and tires came from my Root Beer colored '70 dart project, which was sold to a young man in Silverton, Or. He still owes me for some parts, but you can't get blood from a turnip. Did I just call him a turnip?

This manifold was sent to DD whom did the cast iron welding, thank you very much.
Then Finish Line Ceramic Coatings did the shiny finish

Very nice!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Yeah... This is my car! I paid well over $2900 for it. Well... a little over anyway.
Isn't it a sweet ride.



You can just see the cleaning beginning... Fifty years of crud.









Now the real work can begin

Nice! Gorgeous exhaust manifolds!

Keep up the good work and keep us posted!

I bought piston kits, hoses, a prop valve rebuild kit, and a small bore (7/8" or maybe 15/16") master cylinder before I began the job...




YUCK !!!!


EVEN WORSE !!!


Electrolysis via battery charger & lye... careful of the hydrogen fumes! Kaboom!



There! Magic! All done, and the blood sweat and tears (and expense) forgotten. If I had it to do again, I'd go big bolt pattern (more wheel choices) and all new parts. The money isn't that different (I had to buy new rotors and pads anyway), and there would be a lot less hassle (but now I know).

You do very nice work!

Excellent attention to detail and doing the brakes in the beginning...

I am looking forward to following your progress!!

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I won't bore you with details of every busted knuckle and bolt, but I'm still at it.

Rob, thanks for the compliment. It really helps!

WOW! VERY nice work. I wish I could have met up with you and seen this beauty when I was down there last month. My first project car was a 64 Valiant Signet, so I have a soft spot for the 64 Valiants.

And I agree with Rob. The first thing that should be done on all vintage Mopars is address the braking system. Followed shortly by the suspension system, then the ignition system, then the electrical system, then the lighting system. Once those are complete one can start hopping up the engine and making it pretty. Looks like you are doing it all correctly.

More pictures, please!

Why do you have 2 hei modules on your board?

in case one gets fired / goes bad?



Good Work,


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg,
Exactly! One of the local /6 members had one on his, and I thought it was a great idea. Besides, the server heat sink I used is big enough for 2, so it fills the space nicely.

Cool.


I just carry one in the glovebox.

if it were me I would make some "dummy" wires that go into the loom and terminate to nothing... Make people think you have a really hot iginition or something.

But This is your car, do whatcha want!


Keep on slantin'


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Use the dummy wires as a theft deterrent...........

When the dummy wires and real wires are split between the 2 hei modules, the ignition doesn't work...........

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Here is the ammeter removed from my '64 Valiant dash


Rear view ammeter


This is a Sunpro voltmeter I got at a swap meet for $10.00


Not a great pic, but you can see the pressed housing beginning to split off, by just massaging the apex of the cover with a bench grinder


You can see where this is headed...


I've made a cardboard tracing of the voltmeter face and compared it to the ammeter face

More to come...

Here is the Ammeter face hacked up to fit behind Voltmeter face and fill the gauge cluster window.


Because the gauge assembly screws are centered on the Voltmeter and bottomed on the Ammeter, I made an adaptor out of scrap plastic and some random screws.


Voltmeter mounted to adaptor.


Side view.


Angled view.


Front view (lousy job focusing the camera).


I wish the face more closely matched the stock gauge. I thought of putting it together with only the stock face, but I think it's important to have a numerical reference since it is reading voltage. I might try again someday...