The new '66 Valiant is still rocking the single pot master,and 9" drums. Everything is rebuilt and in good shape, but this is for a daily driver,and it will see a lot of highway use.

My question is this: What do you think is the best way to upgrade the brakes for a daily driver?

My options:

Scarebird- Get to keep SBP(have brand new wheel vintiques rallys), replacement parts are cheap,easy to install.

Cons:Still small ball joint,still small spindle,have to drill rotor hats for 5x4 every time replacement is needed. Im worried that severe duty might be a bit much for the bracket/drilled rotor.



Kelsey Hayes- Get to keep SBP. Cool. 4 pistons of stopping power.

Cons: Initial cost, cost and availability of replacement parts, Sticky pistons....Cost



73+ OEM-Parts readily available, 11.75" rotor option, larger balljoints,and spindles.

Cons:Need to upgrade to BBP( new wheels,and rear axle or axle shafts)

Any info or opinions welcomed.

Jared

If I had it to do again, I'd seriously consider Scarebird or some other with new parts available. Redrilling rotors every 2nd or 3rd brake job seems like a small price to pay. I think your cost to value/satisfaction ratio will be greater. If you look at the pictures of the KH calipers as I tore them down, you'll know why I suggest new parts.

Also, if you go BBP you have many more wheel choices available. In my case, I already owned SBP Rallyes with 70 percent tires mounted.

I am not totally confident in the "long term" viability of my calipers, but there are some really expensive options for that scenario.

Just my 2 cents. Neil
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58590

I guess my real gripe with scarebird is I am worried about putting 15,000 miles a year on those brackets, are they going to warp? Welds crack? when I have to slam on my brakes at 70 mph. Also, not that big of an issue, but still used the stock spindle and small ball joints. Maybe its just the "bigger is better" mentality that makes me worry.

Im not opposed to BBP but the Val is sitting on 1k+ in wheels and tires with 80% tread.

Bigger IS better when it comes to brakes and ball joints. Sorry you spent that much money on the rims and tires, but tires can be transferred to new rims. It is cheaper to have better brakes than to get in an accident because the master cylinder failed or the brakes gave out.

Go for the 73-76 parts.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I vote Scarebird for this job as you already have the suspension in good shape and have a significant investment in wheels.

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Joshua

My thoughts exactly. I actually just bought the car with the new wheels/tires on it, so no cash out of pocket. I did factor them in when I made my offer(spent slightly more than I normally would.)

Josh-

I should have been clearer in my statement, I apologize. The suspension is original,and in need of overhaul.I meant the current 9" braking system is rebuilt and in good working order.

Regardless of my choice, that front end is coming apart.


Jared

If susp in need of rebuilding, then I might vote for BBP parts. Fair bit of work and $ to rebuild 9"/SBP suspension. I have not used Scarebird, but have had about everything else. Probably fine. I have had no issues with 9"/SBP suspension parts over time, even with big tires and spirited driving.

Lots of advantages to BBP, and you don't have to switch the axle anytime soon. My car and I hit many road course events and got into a magazine with BBP front and SBP rear (3-4 yrs overlap before switching to BBP rear).

ALSO, what is your budget for this project, and future projects involving wheels+tires+susp+brakes?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for chiming in Lou. As far as my budget; the 66 is my only car,but I'm not rich. Which is to say, I will put as much $$$ as needed into the car, but the more expensive, the longer I have to wait.

Eventually I would like to build up the Vals brakes/suspension to mimic the Green Brick. Maybe not exact, but similar.

Jared

Then my vote is for the late model factory stuff.

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Joshua

Honestly that's what I have been thinking since day one. I just wanted some opinions from those with more knowledge than myself, and that is exactly what I got

If you are trying for performance handling and braking in anything like the same ballpark as the Green Brick, you need late model (73-76) suspension and brakes, with BBP. Since you are rebuilding the suspension anyway, now is the time to do it. No ambiguity from me here.

Advantages over 9"/SBP:
- present and future parts availability, including higher quality parts
- stronger parts with bigger balljoints, bearings, etc.
- much better range of brakes available and serious upgrades available as needed
- huge range of wheels and tires available, far beyond 15", which now does not offer a great selection of tires

Best,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Are there any disc brake options anywhere that will fit the stock 13" wheels? I'm looking to improve the braking on my '64 Dart art car, but I have two vehicles' worth of 13s with mostly decent rubber on them

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

No.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Frank- I have a set of 14" SBP wheels you can have, if that will help!

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1964 Dart GT