I have a clunk noise when I go over bumps, it's on the passenger side.

I have completely replaced the suspension in my '67, from front to back. The front is now '73-76 type, K-frame, steering link, sway bar, tie rods, disc brakes, etc. The clunk is not the brakes, I had it before I swapped brakes and I still have it. All bushings are new, ball joints are new, car is aligned, drives like new, but when I go over a bump on the passenger side I get a clunk

I have checked everything (I think). Everything seems snug, I've yanked on the tie rods, steering link to see if the castle nuts aren't snug, no sign of movement. It "feels" like it's in that area, like where the torsion bar goes into to the frame, but those T bars went in snugly, they don't seem to be able to wiggle in that hex hole at all.

I'm guessing that these cars, properly assembled with good quality parts shouldn't have a clunk noise when you go over a bump. It's driving me crazy! I'll recheck the steering link, but in the meantime has anyone else had this issue and found it right under their noses (like I haven't so far)?

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Jack up the lower control arm enough to lift tire a few inches off ground, using a lever & fulcrum pry up the tire and listen for a noise or feel for movement in ball joints. A technical assistant would be helpful for this project, perhaps your beer assistant could multitask.

Just a guess, lower ball joint is worn. I had two new LB's crap the bed with just 1500 miles of use. Any movement latterly or vertically indicates they are junk and in need of changing.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

OK, yes, they are new Moog ball joints, upper and lower, but that's something I'll check. I'll also recheck all the castle nuts on the tie rods etc. The ball joints were certainly tight/snug when I put them in, didn't notice any play there.

thanks,

BRian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Yup so were my new ball joints, I didn't even drive in any rain before the damn things gave up.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I had a "strut rod" nut come loose at the forward frame attachment. I apparently didn't torque the big nut tight enough, and it backed off one inch! So THAT'S why there is a roll pin in the end of that rod! Who'da thunk?

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

My strut rods aren't drilled for a roll pin, so I use a lock nut, it hasn't backed off. Also using the HD strut rod bushings that look like small hockey pucks (used on B & C bodies) will torque up better than the one piece old stile bushings.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Mine had 2-piece hockey pucks and lock nuts also. Still backed off. Roll pin hole is at the forward end of the rods. For me- now a regular item to inspect when up on stands.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

Check tightness on the upper A frame "cam" bolts...
They can "bang around" if the alignment shop did not tighten them well, after aligning the vehicle.
The same applies with the lower shock mount bolts.
DD

Good point, Dr. Dodge. Wife's 75 Dart has started that "bang" on one side.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

well, it's not the upper control arm adjuster bolts, it's not the strut rod. I checked the steering link and tie rods, doesn't seem to be those. I checked al the castle nuts, they're all snug. I haven't done the lower ball joint test yet...

This noise is like something's loose, ready to fall off, but everything seems snug under there...I'll report back after the ball joint test this weekend.

To me it sounds like the T-bar, but I don't see any signs that it's loose (or the LCA pin) or anything hitting the T bar.

When I'm driving on the highway or at high speeds ( )and hit a bump I get no clunk, but in the parking lot or at slow speeds any little bumps and it clunks like crazy under there. I had a friend ride in the car and he said he felt it under his feet, that's right where the T bar goes into the sub frame. That all seems good, the retainer clip is in place; I greased the heck out of the (new) T bars when I installed them, and they went in snugly, I had to tap them in with a wooden dowel and a hammer. The noise sounds "low" like steering link, lower ball joint, T-bar, tie rod...something of that flavor.

At first I thought it might be my hard tranny lines. I ran them over the tranny (because the factory ones run right past the exhaust manfold) and up the passenger side to the radiator. They seemed to be hitting the tranny tunnel; I was sure that was the issue, but I installed flex lines and made sure they didn't hit anything. It is quieter (so they were making some noise) but I still have that main clunk under there...

Pic of new tranny lines: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=0

These are teflon lined braided SS, very easy to install once the fittings were in place (not much room at the tranny without dropping it, but I didn't want to drop it).


brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Check for cracks where torsion mates with cross member.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

...have some great points. I have not checked the lower bolt on the shock and the cross-member on that side has a big dent in it where the previous owner ran over a rock or something. The floor on that side was also pretty dented up. I didn't see any cracks or anything coming loose on the cross member, but I'll take a closer look, check the spot welds.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

tighten the tops of the shocks. simple fix. knocks and bangs under rapid load-unload only. can't hear it if you bounce the car by hand.

The bottom shock bolt on that side was indeed loose. I tightened that up but haven't taken her out yet. I suspect that was it, but will confirm. It's hard to believe that was making all that racket, but we'll know tomorrow!

I did Wjajr's method, put the car up on jack stands, put a 2 x 4 under the front tire with a fulcrum, heard a clunk when I pry upward. Tightened the lower shock bolt, no more clunk. So it wasn't the lower ball joint, but his method helped me easily find that the shock bolt was loose. It was not apparent when on the ground.

I did check the top shock bolts they are snug.

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Sorry I forgot that high-tech simple machine is a multi tasker... Econo-grade eastern spruce with a whoop in them works just as well as those expensive tight grained structural western species.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC