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 Post subject: Suspension upgrade
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:42 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Jax, Fl
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As you may know, I'm restoring my 63 Dart. It will be my daily driver. I was wondering what type of suspension upgrades should I do? I already have front disc brakes


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
How do you intend to use your car? Drag race? Daily driver? Autocross? off-roading? Your intended use will dictate the upgrade path you should follow.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:23 pm 
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It's just an everyday driver. No racing or anything.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:33 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Then at the least I would say change rear axles to one with a bolt pattern that matches the front suspension and be sure to run a dual chamber master cylinder. Beyond that, just replace any worn out components and enjoy the ride!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:59 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Jax, Fl
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I have matching pattern and dual chamber master cylinder. I didn't know if there were any spring, shock upgrade etc y'all would recommend


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:04 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
For a daily driver? Nope. Stock is fine. Just replace any worn out components. Use high density rubber (not polyurethane) for bushings, if you have to replace the rear leaf springs due to wear go ahead and upgrade to the five-leaf set of springs, get a decent set of gas shock absorbers (KYB gas-a-justs are about entry level, but some find them too harsh), upgrade to at least 14 (if not 15) inch diameter rims.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:47 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:42 pm
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Location: Jax, Fl
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I have 15 inch rims. What tire profile should I run? These are my rims. And why rubber over poly? I have thought about running upwards of a 17" rim. I am running wheel tubs in the back. Don't know if the front would clear them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Run a 15 inch tire with the same overall diameter as the stock tire.

Poly is too harsh for street use. It might be OK in the rear leaf spring bushings, but it is definitely too harsh for the front suspension of a street car.

You will be VERY hard pressed to find a 17 in tire that will clear the tiny front tire opening in the front fenders on your 63.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 8:42 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:42 pm
Posts: 191
Location: Jax, Fl
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Ok I will do that. Reed I posted on the transmission number breakdown forum. Can u check those numbers for me please?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:21 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I find the stock torsion bars to be much too soft. I would find at least .870" or .890" torsion bars, a front anti-sway bar, and KYB or better shocks. Good condition 5-leaf springs for the back are probably fine. I've run 1.04" torsion bars on the street and with good shocks it rides very well. I'm not sure I'd do so in a convertible without subframe connectors though.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 9:32 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:42 pm
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Location: Jax, Fl
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Do the torsion bars give it a stiffer ride? And why not with a convertible


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:36 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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Quote:
Do the torsion bars give it a stiffer ride? And why not with a convertible
Depends what the definition of is is... or stiff is.

I have 0.940" bars & six leaf rear springs, anti sway bar, and subframe connectors on my 67 ragtop, and it rides softer than my '07 300C AWD. Before installing the above the car acted like is had a big hinge between the front and rear seats that connected two different makes of car; it was a mess and a handful to drive. All sixties factory suspensions were soft mush, Chrysler being on the stiffer side of the mush scale.

The thing to keep in mind is to try to balance front and rear spring rates when stiffing up these cars, and to install a antisway bar when upgrading these car's suspension.

Rag tops have no stiff roof as a sedan to help transmit dynamic forces between front and rear of the chassis. After fifty years or so these soft tops have gone through millions of flexing cycles of the floor pan and the rockers, being the only structural members, between front and rear sub frames holding the car together. A set of sub frame connectors will stiffen up the whole chassis which greatly helps the suspension to do it job. Also you should find torque boxes** reinforcing the structural members at both sides of front cross member and at front of rear spring attachment points, these also add additional stiffening.


**
For illustration and identification.
One can fab up a set of torque boxes, or purchase them from several venders.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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