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| looking for sage with experience replacing master cylinders https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59889 |
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| Author: | bob fisher [ Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | looking for sage with experience replacing master cylinders |
hi slant bruthas - have replaced about 20 master cylinders in various makes since 64. first were single pots in 64 polara and 53 ford. graduated to dual pots in 65 and then dual pots with abs in 90s. never a problem or do over, except when i had to replace a rusted metal line from pot to proportioning valve in a 77 aspen. anyway just replaced a pot with a new one in a 01 merc which was leaking fluid from its piston in the back onto the face of the brake booster(common leak point). the merc has abs brakes. works fine with higher firmer pedal and no leaks or other problems. read haynes merc and crown vic book on master cylinder r and r. says something i dont agree with as it contradicts my experience. says with abs brakes r and r of master is beyond the backyard mechanic b/c you cant bleed the master on reinstall without the huge skills , advanced supertools (and clipcity prices- my words- of the dealer). what i have always done is use those little hoses and nipples supplied with the new cylinder and bleed the new cylinder on my vise until the hoses are only pushing fluid back without bubbles back into the reservoir where they are submerged. then i install the whole apparatus on the booster and quickly connect the two brake lines but i dont tighten them all the way. last i have a partner floor the brake and hold when i tighten the loose lines. then partner releases the brake pedal and we repeat the process. some fluid is spit out but eventually it runs straight without spitting . tighten the fittings and done. road test car. no problems. remember your high school physics class to wit- heavier fluid when pressurized drives out any lighter gas(air) provided there is a nearby- exit point for the gas - the loose thread on the two fittings. no warning lights for the abs go on nor is there any brake malfunction. could i be right and haynes is wrong? your thoughts. bob f |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sat Jul 16, 2016 3:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Some of the "newer" cars, with ABS, require special equipment/ procedures to properly bleed the brakes. Certain years/makes require a "scan tool" to run the ABS system to remove air that can get trapped in the ABS unit. In your case, since you say you have good pedal and no warning indicators, your probably good to go. To be sure, I would find an area with a dirt road. Get up to about 15-20 mph, and hit the brakes hard. You should feel the pedal pulse, and the wheels should not lock up untill you are almost stoped. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue Jul 26, 2016 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Some of the "newer" cars, with ABS, require special equipment/ procedures to properly bleed the brakes. Certain years/makes require a "scan tool" to run the ABS system to remove air that can get trapped in the ABS unit. In your case, since you say you have good pedal and no warning indicators, your probably good to go. To be sure, I would find an area with a dirt road. Get up to about 15-20 mph, and hit the brakes hard. You should feel the pedal pulse, and the wheels should not lock up untill you are almost stoped.
Good to Know.Thanks, Greg |
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