Well it took a bit of working out but i think i am on the right track.
Plenum/manifold adapter is a 3 piece set up bolted together ,
Tensioner bracket bolts on the front of the waterpump.
Bottom manifold plate is 2 pieces tig welded to create the right angle for pulley allignment .
Crankshaft pulley is a March Performance 6271 , the holes had to be drilled out 2 sizes up to bolt onto the front of the harmonic balancer .
I used an Allstar spacer to suit a SBC Chevy to keep the pulley away from the balancer .
I designed all the plats and brackets and sent the files off to be waterjet cut.
Currently working on a carby adapter to allow me to bolt a sidedraft Weber onto the supercharger inlet.
The supercharger is off an Australian Commodore V6 .









It helps to have a spare motor to mock everything up on .

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Nice! Keep us posted how this works! I think boosted fuel injected slnts are the wave of the future.

Looks like very nice work. Can't wait to hear how it runs. That looks like an Eaton M90 blower.

Best,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes , it is an Eaton M90 , basically the same as your GM V6 superchargers over there.
Forgot to add , it is bolted to a 2 barrel inlet manifold .

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I designed a Weber 45 DCOE to L67 supercharger inlet adapter and got it waterjet cut.





Just have to get the coin together to get a carby and i will be able to install this set-up in my ute .

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Everything is installed but i didn't manage to keep it under the bonnet / hood.
Only misses by about 5 cm but i managed to get an old bonnet with minimal rust .
I will be able to cut a hole and put a small hump on it .





I am running a Weber 45 DCOE.
Chrysler electronic dizzy with HEI .
Bypass on the L67 Supercharger is working on vacuum only.
I put the timing back to around 0 and disconnected the vacuum line just in case i had too much total timing.
Surprisingly it started up fairly well so i took it for a quick drive.
Seems to pull fairly good but has a flat spot just before mid throttle.
I realise i will probably have to re jet the carby.
I just have to figure out what to do with the dizzy timing or how to lock the dizzy .

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I like the way you moved the MC out of the way.

Nice build.

Share any specs on the motor/build?

This made me chortle .

No real build specs.
All i did to the engine a while ago was get the block and head very slightly milled to true them up.
The bore is standard and only needed a hone , so i put new rings in it .
It has low compression pistons in it .
The cam is standard grind , i think , i pulled it out of another motor , it doesn't seem to have any lumpiness to it.
That's about it .
I realise i will eventually have to get a cam grind to suit a supercharger to get full potential of the set-up.

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Beauty! Nice work. More details and pictures!

I would suspect that the Eaton M90 will work with a "wet Charge"?


I believe they were used as a dry charge here is the states..

I am not sure if that is important or not.. But Cool Project.

I should get a remote oil Filter like you have - less mess!


Cheers,

Greg

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I think I remember reading about another draw-through carbed M90 setup on this forum, where the guy specifically had the coating removed from the rotors. He was worried the coating would be dissolved by the fuel in the intake charge. Not sure if all M90s have coated rotors or if the potential issue is big enough to worry about, though.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Dartvader wrote:


I am also trying to figure out how to hook up the vacuum advance so it sees ported vacuum instead of manifold. The Buick TB I am using has only manifold vacuum ports, and getting the engine to idle stably is presenting a problem. The problem is, that if the RPM falters at idle for any reason (like the timing jumping around because the centrifical advance comes in too low), then the vacuum drops, the timing falls back 'cause the vacuum advance sees less vacuum , and then the engine goes into a death spiral and dies. It doesn't happen often, but once is enough to make you want to fix it.


I was getting the same symptoms as Dartvader with my engine (supercharged)dying every now and then.
Tried a few different curves but it still did it every now and then .
I couldn't get boost in first and second without working through a flat spot .
This was with vacuum connected to the inlet manifold and disconnected.
After reading about vacuum canisters i decided to adjust mine so the spring had less tension.
I turned it full CW and backed it out half a turn .
My vacuum canister has 8.5R stamped on the arm .
Connected the vacuum line back up to the inlet manifold so it can act as retard when boost comes on .
Amazing what a difference this has made , now as soon as you hit the throttle you can see the bypass valve snapping shut and no hesitation .
My curve comes in at around 900 rpm and is finished by around 1800 rpm .
I have 20 mechanical advance in the dizzy and have initial set at 5.
Slanty idles great and cruises great at 100 kmh .
Now when changing gears boost comes on straight away .
Thought this might help someone .

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Fantastic! Congrats on the ign advance success. This can make all the difference between a sluggish motor and a snappy one!

Lou

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What I'd like to see available over here, is the Aussie slant oil pumps.

Roger

Hi Everyone
Just reviving this topic again for some info .
I just bought an Eaton m90 for my Slant
I need the pulley diameters if someone can please help I want to run 10psi . Is that a good pressure or should I go 5psi ?
Thanks
Alec