So I've updated my '66 Valiant to a Super Six BBD setup I got as a partial payment/exchange in a deal I made with someone. It didn't come with the throttle return or choke linkages so I've been working and fabricating as I go.

The problems: Going from a Carter BBS to a BBD has me puzzled on the number of extra vacuum lines or potential vacuum lines and I need advice on what to do with them.

On top of that, the choke; I don't know how to hook it up. The BBS I had a spring operated stove to the exhaust manifold, but the orientation of the actuator on the BBD means I can't cannibalize that since it operates in a different direction.

Please help!

Choke: go get a № 1232 Electric choke kit. Easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy.

Vacuum hookups aren't difficult. That one at the top right front corner of the carb is your bowl vent. Grab it and rotate it so it's pointing level to slightly downward, then leave it be. Don't cap/plug it. If you want to make use of it (and the purge port, which is the one down at the bottom front, shown here with about an 8" length of hose on it with a bolt plugging it off, up by the brake master cylinder) then follow the charcoal can retrofit instructions here. Otherwise leave the bowl vent open to the air, and leave the purge port plugged.

You've already got the distributor vacuum advance hooked up correctly, and the PCV hose, but it looks like you've got the vacuum supply for the brake booster teed into the PCV line. That's no good, do it right: PCV hose goes to nothing but the PCV valve. Route the brake booster hose to the intake manifold (you can get a thread-to-hose-barb brass fitting for this and replace that bolt that's in the manifold's rear runner port now).

There's a tiny port on the driver's side of the carb, that is the venturi vacuum tap for EGR, not used on pre-'73 cars. Cap it.

There's a small straight port near the base of the carb that provides manifold vacuum. That's for the thermostatic air cleaner. Did you get the Super Six air cleaner with your setup? If you're not using a thermostatic air cleaner, cap that port.

Your carb base gasket is the thin one. Recipe for hot-start/hot-idle problems. Put the thick one in instead (and consider doing the Fuel line mod)

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download, including extensive materials on the BBD.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/supers ... manual.jpg

Most of the ports you will not have a use for and will cap them...

You will want PCV, and distributor vacuum advance, and heated air if you are using the stock super six pietin and snorkel flap for faster warm ups...

Choke pull off requires the use of a late exhaust manifold or modified choke pocket.

The pull off used to be available from Standard Motor Products, but is out of stock (and probably out of production...) You will need SlantSixDan's electric choke conversion or find one on Ebay like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-80-Chrysler- ... 14&vxp=mtr

And you will need an 'ignition on' power source for it or Dan's conversion... on late cars this comes off the key 'on'/run side of the ballast resistor.

No it didn't come with an air cleaner but unfortunately as another user appears to be having as a problem, a stock Super Six AC will likely not fit with the brake booster being where it is. I have an idea for a solution but I haven't gotten there yet. As far as the PCV/booster routing, that was just left over from the BBS I had installed, I intend on changing the routing to the booster in short order, I just hadn't gotten to it yet. As far as the EGR venturi, I have that vacuum line actually hooked up and tied into a mysterious and dubious line going though the firewall.

As far as the gasket is concerned, that was the thickest one that came in either of two kits I got to rebuild the BBD. If it presents idle issues I'll look into alternatives.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to go with an electrical solution to the choke :/. I'll look into it, but I may opt to install a manual choke. Just not a person who's keen on ADDING more electrical components; I'd be more interested in removing them.

Thanks for the help and input. I'll take some time out tomorrow to review all the source material that was linked. You'll have to forgive the quality of the photos, they were taken at 8 oclock at night in the driveway under a worklight with a dodgey cell camera.

Scooper, I'd love to know how you do the manual choke...I followed Dan's advice on the electrical one but I haven't quite figured out the optimal location/angle so that it closes the choke every time...I usually check it before I start up the first time each day...

So please keep us posted!

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Greg loves his daily driver.
1973 Swinger 225 /6 Seats 6

"Converting" an automatic-choke carburetor to a manual choke = bigger pain in the nuts and more hassle than correctly installing the electric choke kit. No angle-figuring or other such fettling is necessary if it's installed according to instructions.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Picture of the 'Outlaw' you all are helping rehabilitate.