Hello all,

Does anyone have any tips on fixing these corroded holes in my aluminum engine block? Sounds like Belzona is the thing to use. How do I clean up the metal on the inside?

- Completely dis-assemble the engine down to the bare block.
- Degrease / clean the engine block.
- Media blast the areas to be repaired. (all the water jacket area)
- Cut & grind the large corrosion holes to where there is solid aluminum on all sides to be welded.
(shaping the holes into square or rectangular "windows" is helpful)
- Cut and fit aluminum "patch pieces" into the holes.
- Weld, and weld... and weld-in all the patch pieces and voids.
( Do NOT weld on any areas surrounding the cast iron bore lines)
- Grind the welds flush / near flush to check for porosity or cracks.
- Use epoxy to repair minor corrosion areas, voids or small cracks.
Optional:
- Use block filler "plaster" to coat the backwall and the floor of the water jacket area.

Once complete, resurface the deck (and the cylinder head) then re-assemble the engine.
DD

Hey, 62......are you located near Aurora, California?

Roger

Arcata CA

That's really too bad. I happen to have a good, usable bare aluminum block, but at 78 pounds or so, along with the size, the shipping alone would be rather painful.

Roger

Shipping an aluminum block is not difficult or very costly; I've carried them in the front door of FedEx Office and had them pack and ship across the country for something like $150.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My personal opinion, forget using your block. Unless you have a really strong reason for wanting to use an aluminum block, just replace yours with a iron block. The few special pieces needed for the aluminum block will be pricey.If you really want the aluminum engine get the block from GTS225. Shipping will be cheaper then repairing your block.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Those are some big holes and will require plenty of work. I agree with Charlie.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou should be able to vouch for the condition of my block. He looked it over, either in Kearney, or at one of the dinner gatherings in Des Moines one year.

Roger

Use an iron block.

Repair the aluminum as time and money allow.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Those photos show only what one can see. How many hidden thin areas are lurking within bowels of water jacket. I'd hold on to it until aluminum scrap prices go back up, and locate an iron engine that is running. Done, and Bob's your uncle. (a little British lingo there) You will have that nice looking Valiant over the curb and burning gas in no time.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hi Roger, I'm at least interested. I sent you a message.