I recently acquired an low mileage '72 slant with this manual transmission/new clutch/surfaced flywheel attached. I have no use for it whatsoever, but maybe somebody does. I'd like to identify it, and request some advice on a fair asking price for all three components as a package. I've got some questions about the engine as well, so I'll post those in the appropriate forum section--just to break tradition with most forums on the net. Based on the condition of the engine, I'd be willing to guarantee this transmission was never abused, and probably received proper maintenance. I believe I heard him say it was a 3 speed, but I'm not certain of that since I was primarily focused on the engine.

That angle makes the levers and side a bit odd.. Maybe share a picture of the Top, Yoke area - is it a slip yoke or a fixed yoke.

It's a 3 speed, but I am not sure what model / Production code it would be.. I have never seen one short and with the ribs on the bottom of the case.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yeah, I did a fair good bit of looking around on the web, before deciding to ask for help. And I didn't find anything that really looked exactly like it. Here's another pic. I'll look for some numbers on the trans next time I'm at its location.

I don't know the model designation, but it looks like a 3 speed all syncro columm shift. For a 4 wheeldrive truck. Has a rear sump oil pan on the engine, and it looks like the yoke on the trans is bolted on, for a drive shaft to a transfer case.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

My 1974 D100 had the same transmission. It's a fixed yoke transmission used with a two-piece driveshaft. Or possibly a divorced transfer case four-wheel drive, but those disappeared by the 1970s. If someone needs one it's probably worth $200, maybe more, but the demand is going to be very low. The standard 3-speed in 1972 was the A250 unless you had a crew cab and then it was the A230.

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Joshua

That all makes sense. It came out of an early 70's truck. The 20 something year old owner inherited it from his dad, who was a former fleet mechanic in the Prineville area, really nice guy. Told me everything I'd want to know about the engine, which is remarkably clean inside and out (I pulled the pan to install some rod bearings, ARP bolts, and check the mains). Anyway, the kid pulled the slant as soon as he got it, and dropped in a mildly built 360. He was at least willing to admit his mistake. Said he wished he'd kept the slant, since his fuel use had nearly doubled, and truck ran like crap unless his foot was in it. Oh to be young and foolish again.

I hope you didn't change the rod bolts. There's a strong likelihood of distorting the big end and destroing the bearing clearance.

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Joshua

I haven't installed them yet, just ordered them yesterday. I just did some research, looks like it's not worth taking a chance on a transportation motor that's never going to turn more than 5000 rpm, if that. Just cancelled the order, $70 I don't have to spend is fine with me. Thanks for the advice. The wear on the old rod bearings is even, and they aren't bad, just had some pitting and a bit of imbedded dirt here and there. I ordered what might be the last set of std. size King rod bearings easily found online. Should be here next week. I'll just slap her back together and call it good.

It's hard to get a 1 bbl slant six to turn 5000 RPM under load. I've never seen a broken slant six rod bolt, but I have seen some broken rods from oil starvation. I expect you'll get fine service out of the engine with the original rod bolts.

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Joshua