On a 1971 225 head, are any of the bolt holes (for the valve cover bolts) tapped all the way through to an area or passage of the head that contains oil? Because it looks like Im wicking oil through a few of my bolts, as there is a small ring of oil underneath the bolt heads on 3 bolts when the engine runs. The valve cover seemed straight when I removed it and put a new gasket on. There is zero oil leaking through the gasket, just up through the bolt hole in the v/c. not much either, about 5min of running produces a small drop. Tightening (a reasonable amount) had no effect

No they are not. At least not on any heads I have seen.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I have had this happen before too.

I am not sure if there is any good solution for the problem.

If a proper gasket is used and its not tightened too tight it should not happen... but things happen.

As a suggestion, clean and reinstall with a new gasket then, maybe a shot of permatex grey in the bolt hole and let it flash up for a few hours before final tightening?

I also sometimes use some of the valve cover bolts with the batwings from the 1980's chrysler V-8 LA valve covers.. those batwings could possibly be found on other engines too.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

ok, good to know its not just me. I used the standard old school felpro cork, silicone to the v/c, dry to the cylinder head. Ive had good luck in past doing this, never had this issue. I will look into the batwing bolts thanks. I have to take the cover off to check valve lash soon, so Ill do a closer inspection and try and see why the oil is taking this path

In my car one of the valve cover bolt holes is open to coolant fluid. I cannot use standard bolts. Instead those I have ARP studs installed with thread sealant.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.

The thread sealant is a good option too but if the threads do not go into an oil or coolant passage I am not sure how well it will work.

In Lgu32's situation, it must work fine.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

One possibility is one or more bolts are bottoming out before full clamping pressure is reached, thus allowing oil to pass by the gasket and out the bolt hole. Try using a washer which will prevent bottoming out.

Another thought is perhaps you have higher than usual crank case pressure due to blow-by and the PVC system is not functioning up to snuff and a small amount of oil is being forced out by the gasket.

Still one more idea:
Is there a deep scratch, divot, or lump of crud preventing a good seal by the gasket that somehow is channeling oil to the bolt?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

This guy sells a solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zRy4D_mLSA

Did you check for the dimpling on the bolt area?

Factory valve cover? Chinesium valve cover?

Cork is good!

My method is save the RTV. It is best used else where. Carb cleaner will loosen the RTV off, Brakleen to remove the carb cleaner residue. 3M Gorilla Snot weather strip adhesive on the valve cover. Let it cure. Wipe the bottom with wheel bearing grease so it will seal and not stick to the head. Old VW air cooled trick as you needed to adjust the valves more frequently vs the slant.

Nothing likes to stick to chrome. 3M is the best bet.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I used a small amount of right stuff and some blue loctite on the bolts, no more leaks