Hello all,
Apologies for formatting, as this is my first post here.
I have decided to restore the factory intake housing to its former glory on my Slant Six from my '84 Dodge D100. So far, the disassembly has been pretty straightforward except for these two parts.
I have tried to do some research before posting here and haven't found anything helpful. Looking up the number on Part A didn't yield any results. I don't need to buy new parts. I'm just looking to make sure that I know what they do so that I don't damage them during the rebuild. All I know is that they have something to do with the vacuum system.
Both parts are attached to the lower base of the air filter housing (sitting right on top of the carb).
I'm mainly asking because I assume these parts are too delicate to be soaked in the rust remover, so I plan on soaking the rest of the housing in before completing the rebuild.
Again, apologies for the formatting. Please let me know if there is anything that I can clarify. Thanks so much for the help, and I'm glad this community is still alive!

"Part A"	"Part B"

For the Vacuum Switch and vacuum servo on that air fileter housing, I have no Idea if those parts are available new. SlantSixDan will know if those parts or reputable equivalents are available.


Best of luck.

Greg

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What you are working on is not an intake housing; it is called the air cleaner.

The vacuum servo (hockey puck atop the snorkel) has been unavailable as a repair part for many years. To check if yours is good, apply vacuum to it—hose from servo to mouth—and then block off the end of the vacuum hose with your tongue while you watch the damper door in the snorkel. If it does not stay in the "up" position, or you can endlessly suck air and the door won't rise in the first place, the diaphragm in the servo is shot. If it's still good, you can preserve its decal by covering it while you work on the air cleaner housing with whatever rust removing materials and techniques you might be using. Sandblasting is fast, but rough. Evapo-Rust is slower and gentler, but expensive. Molasses is slow, gentle, and cheap.

If you choose to remove the servo, drill its rivet and then lift it out, pivoting on the tab across the servo from the rivet, and disengage the hook from the snorkel door.

The thermostat (flying saucer perched inside the air cleaner body) has likewise been unavailable for years, but I have one or two new ones left on the shelf. This item wouldn't stand up well to rust-removal techniques, but yours is likely due for replacement anyhow. You can check it by attaching two vacuum hoses, one to each of the nipples on its underside. One from the sensor to the servo, and the other from the sensor to a source of vacuum. Put the whole works in the refrigerator for half an hour, then remove it and apply vacuum; the snorkel door should rise. Then point a hairdryer on "Medium" at the sensor for a few minutes while applying vacuum; the snorkel door should not rise. Or if no hairdryer, put the assembly in the oven, close the door, turn it to bake/300 for five minutes while you stand there, then switch off the oven and leave the oven closed for another five minutes or so. Remove the assembly and apply vacuum; the snorkel door should not rise.

The sensor is secured in place by one or two tension clips on the underside of the housing; send me a PM if you'd like to have a new one.

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I appreciate your help. There is a lot of really useful information in your replies. I'll see what I can do about getting them out before cleaning. Thanks so much!