Hi, and thanks for letting me in here!

I´m helping a friend of mine who is not expert in english language (we both live in Sweden). He is right now re-creating an old front engine dragster, FED, from the 60's/70's. The car earliner had a Chevy small block engine but my friend is a true Mopar enthusiast and wants to build something unusual. And since he had a couple of 225 (from 1973-1975) he decided to choose the Slant Six but with an important race attribute; a blower!

He is quite busy re-building & updating the chassis to modern rules and also learning how to adapt the engine for blower on a drag strip. His plan is modify engine in several ways, e.g. porting the head, larger valves?, stronger rods and more. He aims at revving 6-6.500 rpm. Boost?? Well, I´m not sure, but if possible 9-12 psi. He will have water in the block, run on E85 and 1 or 2 carbs.

We have been racing before in other cars, and our view is that Weiand 142/144/177 is more of a street blower. IO´m not sure how much you can rev the rotors before you risk damage. It also seems that Holley has stopped selling the Weiand blowers. This has so far lead him in the direction of using a 4-71 blower. I suppose that he will need the blower intake from Aussie Speed Shop even if that manifold fits the Weiand & Eaton blowers.

So, the main question right now is: Does anyone in here have info about cars that runs Slant Six with a 4-71 blower? Any info or pointers are MOST appreciated!

Check out Terry Littlejohn in Canada.

https://youtu.be/mJrSfX1VPAY?si=k8UiBbWTVDvuu4DZ
He is sometimes on this forum as well.

Cheers!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks so very much, most appreciated. Yes, it is clearly a GMC blower, will will study this in detail!

I include a not-so-good photo of his dragster. Well, you can´t see much, but you can see a strange mockup leaning engine block. Photo was taken fresh out from the chassis shop.

Has anyone heard from Terry in a while?? I have not.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

That rail is nice.

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Hyper_pak

I bet Ceej has some ideas too. I am not sure if his rail has been run on track yet. But it is also an FED.

Eickmann FED

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

He is on the Facebooks now. I'll DM him to pop in.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

nice project ! you wouldn`t have to do anything with bottom end, stock rods , crank and piston. do all oil passage mods on this site drilling over size in the block! clearance the pistons on the loose side close to the forged piston clearance! i have had the the race engine up to 6800rpm shifting at 6500rpm but with the torque from the blower i went to 5500rpm shifts and the car went faster! over size valve are a must i tried the 1.70int and 1.44exh valves they slowed the car .25sec from the 1.80int and 1.60exhaust. only problem on a .080in over bore i had to notch the top of bore for the exhaust valve clearance! i made the intake from a stock cast iron because i never had the ability to weld aluminum at the time. it`s not hard to a line the blower on the intake with a 1/2in aluminum plate! the aussie intake is surely nice piece!

https://scontent-lga3-3.xx.fbcdn.net/v/ ... e=69BA10A5 https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/ ... e=69B9F8D7

i should mention that you need good crank venting or oil will blow out the oil pan gasket at 14psi! i ran a catch can from the fuel pump mount to a catch can, fix it!

Thanks very, very, much for your really qualified info, this is really valuable info!! The builder basically has no one to speak to here in Sweden about "racing with Slant Six´s", since very very few has raced with them after end of 70´s. He is right now in the process of learning about S6 engine aspects when racing, so this info shortens his learning curve significantly!

thanks! are you over boring the engine? what oil pump are you using? when gapping the rings aim for .022/.024in gap top ring you needed it with the heat the rings will see! running 7 to 10 psi you can get away with felpro blue gasket and spray sealer like copper coat! but it will push out to lifter side eventually! i went with a copper .045in gasket head/ studs ,o-ringed just the block and spray sealant to hold 14psi! when doing the over size valves do a three angle seat cut then open the port pocket to the lower edge of the 70deg cut then blend it out to the port matched area! hope that helps!

@Terry:
I sent a PM to you, but it´s better if my dialogue is visible for all to read. Who knows, maybe some other jerk wants to blow the hell out of his/her Slant Six...

Not sure about bore, Ill check with him!

This is what I wrote in the PM:
I was surprised that you mentioned to use stock rods and pistons. He might have found a set of new made chinese CRMO rods "Eagle style", but I don´t know if it contributes with reliability or not.

He also struggles with the original oil pump since having the oil filter in original position is unfortunately not possible due to lack of space in the chassis. He simply must have a remote oil filter he has found that there is such a pump available in cars that was sold with RH steering cars. But I don´t know if it is possible to fins a new one. He is looking for such a pump, but I´m trying to check if it would be possible to use a larger Melling (M-66C), and cut the oil filter mount and weld mounts for AN fittings.

What oil pump do you use?

Thanks again for your answers!!

ok! i can post this! i`m using a belt drive pump right now because i had good cams with damage oil pump gears! you need to make sure if using the stock pump that all sharp edges inside the pump house and block are all smoothed with a burr or stone too improve oil flow through the pump! also use lighter grade motor oil with a positive oil feed to the contact point of the two gear drive the pump! i use a fine stone to smooth the edges of the gear on the pump and cam this help them mess and form a good wear pattern! there is a couple of ways to feed oil to the gears! one through the block and one the pump it`s self! a well designed oil pan is a must to keep oil to the pump under acceleration and deceleration! once you get up to 6000rpm`s that is were i think the gear mess is affected! zinc additive in the oil or use a light weight diesel oil will help!