Any advice on a reasonable priced welder that is an ALL around for a project car.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig ... matic_135/

This will do most automotive work that comes up. If you frequently weld material thicker than 1/4" you'll need a bigger welder. I've been using one for years and it's never let me down. Just keep a few spare contact tips on hand and you should have years of trouble free service.

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Joshua

I can't even find the name of mine, but if you're interested in a stick welder I'd recommend looking for one with continuously variable settings rather than click settings like the common Century buzz boxes. When you get into thin metals you don't want to be locked into a one-size-fits-none heat.

A long time ago when Century poor men's welders were $149.95, I paid $225 for a continuously variable welder.

I have a lot of friends who weld for our student design teams on campus, and they all say to forget MIG and just go with a TIG. I understand the technical advantages of TIG, but in terms of learning curve, how much harder is the actual process of welding than MIG? I've had my hands on a MIG a few times and it seemed like something I could pick up if given sufficient practice time, but I've never actually tried TIG.

Edit: I just looked at TIG prices... wow... there's at least one compelling argument to go w/ MIG.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

What about this

deleted link

If you do find that you need a bit more power go for the MillerMatic 185. Not sure if its still made, but it lays down one of the nicest welds I've seen.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Your linky no worky. What brand/model were you lookin at?

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

HD carries Lincoln looks like the one that $349 might do well. The Link gets you to the tool page and then go to "welders"

Although I copied it when I was on the welders page

I tried to save some money, but ended up wasting it - I bought an Oxy acetylene rig and a small budget stick welder - The Oxy/Ac rig takes more finesse than I give it, and the Buzz box stick welder (mightymite) is way under powered. I have not used either one since I bought the Lincoln SP135 Mig/Fluxcore wire feed welder. The SP135 with CO2 Argon mix was easy to use. I have welded floorpans, exhaust pipes/mufflers, angle iron fuel cell stand, rear seat hold down clips in the 61 Valiant. I wish I would have skipped the OXY/AC and the stick welder and just made the Lincoln SP135 my first.

I have a MIG (110v) I got from Harbor Freight. (one of their 1/2 price sales).

Used mostly for exhaust work, and light work (1/8", sometimes 3/16").


Don't bother with flux-cored wire. You're essentially a mini-arc welder and you have lots of slag to clean up.


BTW, once you find settings that work, write them down....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I have a strong suspicion that hobart welders are identical to miller on the low end of the price scale. They have the same output/performance, visible identical except for coloring. Definately stay away from oxy welding and stick if you plan on doing sheet metal. If for some strange reason you do go with an arc/stick welder I would suggest the thinnest rod you can find. I've had luck with 5/64 E6013 rods, but I believe they can also be had in super thin 1/16". Some of the lincoln welders I've seen looked a little on the flimsy side. Last year I needed to replace my welder and purchased the millermatic 135 that was mentioned. The welder was over $500 and the large Co2/Ar cylinder was another 160. I haven't had any problems that were the machines fault. Mig isn't very forgiving on rusted or dirty (painted) metals at low voltage settings. Tig takes some skill for thin metals I hear the Tig-p (pulse) machines can do thin easier but cost more. Tig is the best method in terms of strength, but for 95% of auto welding mig is the way to go.

Very good product for the avarage user. And if your going to do body work this type welder is need for sure.


If you have plans of fabrication work ( like aluminum intakes or headers) then a tig is the way to go for sure. But the tig want do body work it gets to hot.

The miller Joshie225 listed is very good al around and will do body work with ease & can even pull off fabing a set of headers its just better with a tig to that. I dont think aluminum work is very good with this type welder though. Some say you can but a Tig is they to go for aluminum for sure.


Jess

Thirty years ago, I asked myself that same question. I bought a gas setup with Smith gauges, body and tips. I never looked back since then.