Anyone know a source for cylinder head bolts, Dorman Part #675121? I placed an order with RockAuto, but they say they've been discontinued...

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vm

If you want to step up to studs:

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/ARP-st ... rdware.htm

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Nope — don't want studs. At least not for the cylinder head. I started installing the head and manifolds as a single unit to avoid the difficulty of that center lower manifold nut, and it's hard enough to do as is.

If no one knows of a source, I'll just reuse the existing bolts.

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vm

I have never replaced a head bolt, and never had one break/strip. I have used some of them at least 5x over (head swap, rebuild...) and usually torque them to >80ft-lbs (wet with oil).

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I snapped one in one ocasion when my torque wrench got sc**wed up and I didn't notice and tighten it in excess of 12 kg/cm2.

Other than that, I always reuse them.... What is wrong with them? bad threads? Is hard to see one of those wear bad enough not to reuse them if you can get them... I have one set of ARP's that I got for feeling that I wasn't beeing THAT cheap, but never installed them yet. Got con rods, mains and head arp kits. Really nice stuff...

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

My understanding is that the ARP bolt are a real good idea if your engine is blown or using nitrous. These bolts are less likely to stretch under the load. I would think that the stock bolt would be good otherwise. I did have one main cap bolt on a Chevy small block that almost came up to spec and then it got easier and easier to turn. The bolt was turning into a screw instead of a bolt. A new bolt fixed this. (sorry about the nonSlant reference)

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I'm sure the stock bolts are fine, but I'm trying to take the opportunity to replace all of the 35 year old parts that I can, and new bolts are cheap insurance.

But, eventually, somebody's going to need a new head bolt or two. Are they gonna have to go to studs? That would kinda suck.

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vm

can you tell us the head bolt part number?

ehh.... nope... head studs (not bolts) I got them slightly used, as well as mains. I said I got for feeling that I wasn't beeing THAT cheap... the THAT part explaining it perfectly!

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I prefer stock headbolts for most engines, and that's what I have. I just posted the ARP stuff because I knew where it was.
If you have any doubt about critical bolts, it is a good idea to replace them. Metal does change over time, and who knows what those fasteners have been through?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

The ARP head bolts are nice, but $75 is a lot for some bolts, nuts & washers. But I still run them in my car

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there's a seller's store in ebay that sells them new for 50 bucks IIRC

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

PAW sells them cheaper than that.........

I haven't found ARP or PAW head bolts, only studs. Any part numbers?

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vm

Cant you put the studs on after the head is down just like a bolt anyway? Some are even made this way with a allen head top or screw driver slot. If not dubble nut or sloting them wouldnt be to hard.


Jess