Is there any such thing for the slant? Trying to round up some parts for next build and if there around thought it might be a cheaper purchase. So Electric Water pump, or can we convert one from a 350 and such to a slanter?

I have a sbc electric w/p.....it is not ever going to work with a slant.

You can use a Moroso Water pump kit to make the slant pump electric. Dennis Slantzilla has one...and I think CharlieS. That would be the easy way....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sounds good that was what I was thinking might happen. I just plan on adapting something from a cheap source ie sbc and putting it on the slant somehow. Thanks again. Wes

Remember that older slants don't have much alternator power.............

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

You want this:



Moroso 63750 $82.95

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I will post a
picture of the bracket I made to fit the waterpump.

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j59/r ... racket.jpg

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

_________________
67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Now that's interesting. I've never seen an electric in-line water pump like that before. I wonder how the 55gph max compares to the throughflow achieved with a stock slant-6 pump (and at what RPM).

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have a Moroso electric fan and water pump drive on my car. It cooled fine, even in street use. It is not recommended for street car, only race cars. The motor is actually a heater blower motor, and has bronze bushings. These are not designed for the side loading a belt puts on the bearing. They are also not designed for the amount of torque required to run the fan and water pump. In street use the motor will run very hot, and can burn out the windings, after awhile. If the windings last, the bearings won't. In occasional street use, I needed to replace the motor,about every 6 months.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Seems like this in-line design would eliminate those problems, no?

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, but that is just the water pump. Still have to get an electric fan. Look at the price of that inline pump. Not much bang for the buck. Don't feel it is worth spending that much money on a street car, for the small amount of gain. On a race car the Moroso unit works/lives just fine.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I make sure to run the drive belt very loose on mine. I know someone who used to eat motors on a BB Dart race car. Problem went away when he quit tightening the belt like a regular fan belt.

I honestly haven't run mine enough to know if it does anything one way or the other.

I did find out last year that when I shut off the nitrous and 2 step after the stripe, do not shut off the 3rd switch for the water pump.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Is there even much to gain in lost HP by converting to an electric water pump? I was under the impression that the stock pump hardly put any draw on the engine as opposed to a belt driven fan, which can suck up quite a bit of HP.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

On my mudbogger I saved almost 100lbs by going from a cast iron W/p and Saginaw power steering to a Proform aluminum elec w/p and manual R+P steering.

Two things make the electric water pump worthwhile......better cooling at an idle...and at WOT. The side benefit is reduced power loss at WOT.


Typically I start the car....wait till the heads are warm and start the pump.....the electric fan starts at the same time. I make a run.....fight my way back to the pits, shut down the motor and leave the pump running till everything is warm(not exploding hot).

I dont run an alternator.

Drivability in the pits and staging are much improved. If there is a delay in staging I can shut down the motor and leave the pump on instead of appearing at the line overheated and tempermental.

The Proform pump weighs 6 lbs ....has no belts and is a snap to install. It wont work on a slant. A clever guy could build slant specific integeral electric pumps.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Wow, this relates to a new SL6 product design I did a number of years ago. Basically it's a aluminum water pump housing that accepts the BB Mopar water pump assembly. (my design was a machined casting but a billet one is also possible)

The problem I found was that this new "stack" of parts stuck-out further from the engine block and could interfer with the radiator.
I was working to resolve that issue but the project fell way low on the "to do" list.

To have a special WP housing that allowed BB / Hemi pumps to bolt-on and maintain good spacing would allow use of OTS Hemi electric pumps currently available.
DD