putting this back on But do not have access to the install tool. would a 4x4 and a hammer work or would this jamb the internals...?

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Don't do it,it's hard on the thrust/main bearing.I forget the bolt size right now but you can use a longer bolt with washers to install.Someone will chime in with the bolt size I'm sure.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

Don't hammer or whack the damper, it'll break and damage stuff. Use a ¾"-16 × 2¼" bolt and appropriate washer to draw the damper onto the crank snout. You can leave the bolt in place once it's installed.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm one of the few whose slant has a bolt from the factory maybe it was a truck thing, anyway; My balancer wouldn't go on far enuf to start stock length bolt so I picked up a 3" long bolt to get it started then switched to stock bolt/washer and seated the balancer.Just info for if it happens to you.

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83 B-150 slant 6,4 speed. 79 B-300 360 pathfinder 4x4. 74 W-300 318 4x4 git-r-done 80 B-100 sl6,4speed

thanxs thought it would be a bad Idea to hit the balancer, did pick up the right diameter bolt and will work on it thursday. thanxs again. will let you know how it turns out.

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when I wnet to the auto parts store, a Friend.....(%#!@) attempted to put on the harmonic balancer with the 4x4 and a hammer. Do I have to replace the main cap bearings now?

all good deeds don't go unpunished.

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Oh, great. Did this "friend" have permission to fool with your car while you were away?
How hard did he try, and how big a hammer did he use (and was he successful)?

(Psst…I sent you a PM the other day - please check your Private Messages inbox.)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Time to check the crankshaft "end-play" measurement.
Here is one of many webpages discribing the check:
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/cranksha.htm
DD

its not all the way on, but its not coming off with out a puller. and a 5lb hammer. So it sounds like I have to tear the motor, lower end apart again, and get a new oil pan gasket, which is cheaper in the long run.

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Be sure to use the correct puller, one that bolts to the center hub.
DD

I have that, and the info about the measuring is great, but I have no flywheel on the end of the motor. how else would I check, or is it beyond checking.

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Use the rear crank flange or the flex plate.
I use a dial indicator with a magnetic base and can set that onto either end of the crank to do the check.
DD

I advise you not to tear your engine apart just because of this. Just check endplay and reinstall the damper. 999/1000 times you will not hurt the thrust bearing, is my estimation.

I have beat on quite a few dampers with wood and a hammer with only one damper damaged (1st one) and NEVER any crank damage. You just have to be careful and not cock the damper on the snout of the crank - evenly tap it on, rotating your taps around the snout as you go.

FYI, Cameron Tilley, world ruler of Slant 6 horsepower, also beats his on with a hammer and block of wood. I saw him do two that way...

I have installed a few with a bolt too, and that is the "kosher" way to do it.

Let the flaming begin...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

A slick damper install tool is really easy to make...
Some 3/4-16 all-thread, a nut and thick washers and damper installs are a snap.
DD

Thanks everyone...will keep you posted

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