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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:50 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
Car Model:
It sounds like you’ve got it figured out now. You can carefully trace all those extra wires to make sure they are extras and remove them. I’ve pulled a trash can full of wires from under the dash of almost every car I’ve ever bought. They can accumulate a lot of radio, speaker and fog light wires in 40 years and they can all be trouble later also.

Danny


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 Post subject: update...
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:28 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:37 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Oakland, Ca
Car Model:
status: I've narrowed down the most accurate wiring diagram, reconnecting the original ammeter as their wires(black/red) were still connected to their locations in the bulkhead disconnect-inside car.the black was still connected from firewall to alternator. i have cleaned all connections and replaced all connections(used male quick disconnects per dealer). i do have one wire that's just been hanging around coming from the t location and going to the oil pressure switch. where is the oil pressure switch if anyone knows... i've looked in haynes and chilton hard cover and apparently overlooking it. the last wire to be replaced on bulkhead is the j spot/gray to coil negative side. let u know what happens... peace, katt

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:11 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5612
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Quote:
i do have one wire that's just been hanging around coming from the t location and going to the oil pressure switch

Oil pressure switch is under the oil filter attached to the oil pump housing. The electrical terminal faces the passenger's foot well.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 1:45 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:37 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Oakland, Ca
Car Model:
[quote][/quote]thanks wjajr now i have to different diagrams as i mentioned and the one from haynes seems to be misleading, for the wire coming from the j position on bulkhead disconnect/firewall side. the one from haynes has that wire going to going to the relay, the diagram i downloaded has a gray wire going to the coil/negative. do u know which is right(i believe the download) and more importantly what gauge is the wire. i am at the finish line almost

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:24 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
Car Model:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:41 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
Car Model:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 3:04 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Sep 01, 2007 7:37 pm
Posts: 37
Location: Oakland, Ca
Car Model:
Quote:
yes i'm using that diagram and it goes no where on both sides. so i'm done with the engine compartment other than checking all other connects. now i'm disecting the inside where all the extra wires are including a fake alarm system. go figure.
Quote:

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fenomenalkatt!!!

'67 Dart "Sandy"
225/904


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