Getting'er up to temp quickly when you get caught starting your class at the front of the lanes after too long a wait like an oil down (typically still slamming your bucket & straps on as well).

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

That gets the head warm, but what about the cylinders?

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Joshua

Sometimes you just have to roll with what you can manage. Folks tend to get testy when you add to a delay, starter folks in particular.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

I have used a Mercedes 16" pusher on my cars with great success.
As soon as I can find another one it will be in my Volare. They are easy to mount and wire.

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Im with Dick on the quick warm up .....I want the heads hot enough to run nicely and the thermostat to open quickly. (non slant mudbogger)

As soon as it cleans out and will idle I turn on the pump.....as soon as the Tsat opens I turn on the fan.

On really hot days when the class runs back to back reverse order and I am the last guy first run and #1 on the 2nd run....the pump and fan will run the whole time between runs.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I have an electric pump/fan drive on the red car. I have made passes with it turned off and never cooked anything. It's not a good practice though.

I usually let it run 5 minutes or so back in the pits if we will run again soon.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The Davies Craig pump doesn't use a belt at all. It is mounted in-line at the lower radiator hose. Then you remove the belt from the mech pump and remove the thermostat. When used with the digital controller, you set the temp with the controller. It keeps the water pump running for two minutes after shut down, same as the electric fan's controller does. During warm up, it only pulses the pump on and off to allow a quicker warm up.

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

Sounds like the cat's pajamas. If you are willing to take the risk of failure out on the road, go for it.

For a street car, I would not choose to run an electric pump. It is an additional failure point, an additional electrical load and adds a break to the cooling system hoses. A failure point.

It is not going to net much economy running at normal cruise with the engine configuration we have.

Be great for you to prove me wrong. Just carry a spare if your heading cross country.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Well, this pump really isn't going to work for the typical /6er, just because of the cost (which eliminates economy). You're right, probably won't net much HP gains for my use, either. But, I got a sweet deal on one, so I decided to give it a try. Since the original poster asked about electric pumps, I wanted to point out that there is a feasibility.

-Moose

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1966 Clark Cortez, Industrial /6

I would rather have a serpentine belt system on a slant
six.

I think electric water pumps might eventually be common
in production cars. I had a Toyota that broke the pump belt
but I drove that car to the parts store without the water
temperature rising, then all the way home as the pump was
locked up. I don't think some motors require much of a
water pump and it could have variable speed.

My Dad's tractor and many other early industrial motors did not have a water pump at all. They just had a huge radiator and fan. Water circulated by convection.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.