hello all.
I have just ordered this kit from summit racing to replace alot of the horribly worn out bushings on the front end of my car.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-5-18104G/

I most desperately need to replace my upper control arm bushings as they are realley worn out badly due to my car having the hydraulic suspension - and being stock - 38 year old rubber.

my car is a 1972 plymouth valiant with the 9" drums and small lug pattern 5 on 100mm all the way around.

can any one please shed some light on any special tools I might need to acomplish the job in my garage - and share some tips on removing and replacing the old bushings with the new... id be greatly apreciative



this is how my front suspension is currently setup - using spring over hydraulic cylinder mounted where the shock absorbers would have gone - and the torson bars have the ajuster ears taken off. wish I still had them tho. that way I could set a little tension with them and not slam the crossmember on the ground so violently :O

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

Is your shock tower reinforced?

The bushings are all pretty straightforeward. You should be fine if you have the right tools or are creative.

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madam im adam

Why did you abandon the factory suspension system?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Yeah, what's up with the coil-overs? The stock torsion bars (or at least larger, stiffer versions) are superior in every way...

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vm

so im thinking with my basic garage tool setup I should probably be able to remove most the suspension components that id need to for replacing all of the front bushings ? - with maby the exeption of a wedge spanner fork that is sometimes used to hammer in and spread apart pieces ?

the car came to me with the front suspension setup like that.

the hydraulic cylinders up front have 10" of extension / compression to them - so when I hit the switch to dump all the hydraulic fluid back to the tank the front end goes all the way down until the front crossmember is actually resting on the ground. when the hydraulic cylinders are fully pumped up with fluid - I have 9.5" between my front crossmember and the ground. - so my ride height is infinately ajustable at the flick of a switch mounted in the interior of the car - and those yellow coil springs allow for a small amount of suspension movment on top of the hydraulic cylinders - as that oil does not compress or ride nice like cars with air bag suspensions do.


the thing I would change is that I would of put the torson bar ajusters back on and just set them to "catch" the car if you will when its realley low to the ground as those little coil springs up front are pretty soft -and I bet the ride quality could greatly benifit from having some extra spring tension up front.

fully raised front and rear


fully dumped down front and rear

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

Ah, I see. The problem, as radarsonwheels mentioned, is that the upper shock mounts are not designed to bear the full weight of the car at all times. In order to use these shocks properly, the upper shock mounts MUST be reinforced, as they are in aftermarket coil over conversions like this:

http://tinyurl.com/y2bzsc7

You could fabricate these reinforcements yourself, this link is just an example of what I'm talking about. Granted, this suspension is a different intended use than yours, but the principle is the same.

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vm

You don't necessarily need to remove the UCA from the ball joint. You will need a rig to push the old bushing out and press the new bushing in. I've used sockets and a fine thread screw to do it. If you're going to use a press, then you'll need a pickle fork to remove the UCA from the car. Once the bushing installation is completed, bolt it back together and take to an alignment shop.

You may want to consider installing a lower control arm bump stop. (Couldn't see one in the photo.) It will take about a ½" out of the downward travel and soften the impact of sudden, extreme upward wheel travel.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

Just some hind sight advice from my disc brake installation experience a year ago.

If your car has even the slightest bit of corrosion or rusty suspension pieces-parts or is from a climate that ever got snow and ice or rain, your gonna need a gas-axe (cutting torch). Trust me, the adjusting bolts will not want to give up their homes unless persuaded a bit.

Replacing the bushings is the easy part. Just take your time and use a chisel or punch to distort the old bushings enough to remove them from the arm. A press is helpful for removal but necessary installation.

The lower pivot rod is again, one item I would have pre-staged just to facilitate ease of install of the control arm bushing. A core pivot rod isn't that expensive and you can sell your old ones for profit or keep them for your next project once you remove the old bushings. Also, that lower control arm bushing is a nightmare so be warned. Others have some ideas on how to remove the bushing but I'm sure you'll get creative by this point in the game.

**The upper and lower ball joints should be replaced since you'll have it apart (and if they haven't been changed, it's time anyway). The uppers are a serious PITA for a home garage shop unless you have serious tools. You can do it but its gonna be a lot more than just putting em in a vice and twisting with pipe wrench and a cheater bar.

I simply bought core upper arms and had the ball joints and bushings already changed before the project. WAY easier than having it all apart for an entire week in my garage while my wife complains about the mess. If you're not married, consider yourself lucky! Do what ever you like!

Just some lessons I learned from the road trip you are about to travel. Good luck and take some more pics so we can see the progress. That's one thing I wished I did but didn't.

Good Luck!

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'68signet

"Living analog in the digital age."

thanks for all the help guys.

I have replaced every single suspension bushing on my car with units from the energy suspension kit that I got from summit.

the front was pretty tough to do - but not so bad I guess. - we had a big bushing puller / pusher kit looked like a big c clamp but with a large open hole at one end and adapter pieces to go in there for diffrent sizes. was verry helpful in removing / installing the upper bushings.

when i started I was pretty shure that my upper control arm bushings were bad - but when I got to the lowers - o my gosh - they were 10 times worse.
I cant even believe how crushed / smushed they were. when we took the spindles off the control arms - you could literly wiggle the lower arm back and fourth around a good solid inch in every direction.


now that the bushings have been in for about 70 miles of driving - the rear shackle bushings from energy suspension are super squeaky and annoying as heck. so be warned about that. im probly going to change out the rear shackle bushings back to normal rubber replacment units instead of that hyper bushing stuff that engegy makes - because the constant squeaky noise is verry much un bearable. - and yes I used tons of that lube stuff they gave with the kit - its just squeaky as hek still

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1972 Plymouth Valiant / slant 6 auto

have the same problem thanks for all the replies. anyway, looks like the time has come to get my control arm kit done. While doing my research on the best parts and deals, I came into the online manufacturer (removed by Mod). it is a claim to be superior to OEM parts. i bought my auto parts for a cheaper price and it makes me happy as well.

When replacing suspension bushings, leave them loose and lower the car to the ground. With the tires inflated, roll the car a short distance forward and back. Then tighten the fasteners without lifting the car. If you tighten the fasteners without letting the suspension settle into its "neutral" position, the rubber in the bushing will be torque-preloaded, and will *quickly* fail.

Ken