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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:55 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
im planing to get my duster back on the asphalt before dec,my manifold crack a while back so i finaly decided to taked a part,clean the engine for paint,i was removing 38 years of gunk when this happen,hope my pics work,how can i fix it,any of u had this problem,how hard to fix,please help

JASONImageImage


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 8:58 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7416
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Are you talking about the block plugs?
Pop them out and install new ones. :D

Is there something else wrong in the photo that I can't see?

CJ

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2007 5:27 pm
Posts: 187
Location: northern NJ, USA
Car Model:
If one core plug is leaking, the others are not far behind. Replace all of them.

Ken
:-)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:44 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
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Could you post a larger or clickable picture? I thought I saw what you were asking about, but picture is too small to be sure.

Richard

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:49 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
so it is a simple fix :shock: ,where can i get these parts,part #,pull old ones out,push the new ones in,is that easy as it sounds,no special tools :oops: thank you,

JASON


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:50 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 9:47 pm
Posts: 526
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Aha,

Once I recognized what "things" on the left picture was.

What you are looking at is water squirting from hole of corroded core plug.
The right hand picture is core plug with hole visible.

1. Turn the core plug sideways with careful tapping with a flat tool rod on inside edge of cupped part.
2. grab the plug edge with favorite choice of tool and pull old plug out.
3. clean up the round surfaces where core plug sits on with sand paper, clean up and degrease well with acetone or like that leave no oily residue.
Clean up the new core plug with acetone or like.
4. Apply bit of sealer round the surface and round the edge of new core plug.
5. Drive it in carefully with a socket and a hammer, just below the edge of the opening.

Cheers, Wizard


Last edited by Wizard on Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 9:54 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
Quote:
Could you post a larger or clickable picture? I thought I saw what you were asking about, but picture is too small to be sure.

Richard
sorry fopar,donno how to do clickable thing yet,thank you

JASON


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:06 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
Wizard got what I saw but wasn't sure of.
When you drive the new soft plugs in use a large socket (one that almost as big as the recess in the soft plug).

Richard

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 11:34 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
thx everyone,now were can i get these plugs,i looked at ebay no luck,what kind of sealant should i use,thx guys

JASON


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 12:42 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
Posts: 536
Location: Rawson,Australia
Car Model:
any good parts store will have them. slant freeze plugs (we call them "welsh" plugs in Australia) are 1 5/8" diameter. they are available in brass also,which is a corrosion resistant alternative. cost a fraction more,but last heaps longer than steel.


regards,Rod :D
PS: a radiator repair place should have them also.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 5:51 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Aug 26, 2010 12:30 pm
Posts: 24
Location: kansas, usa
Car Model:
Freeze plugs are available at any auto parts store. I use good old #2 permatex sealant. What ever sealant you use don't go overboard with it. just a thin coat on the rim of the plug knock them in and you are good for another 35 years. Cheers Cliff

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 10:27 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
thx guys,ill be heading to my local autoparts store today,whats the funtion of these freeze plugs,anything alse that i need to do,get the hose and wash out the gunk in there i donno, thx for all ur replyes...

JASON


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 11:46 am 
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6 Pack Dart
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 5:44 pm
Posts: 2281
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Car Model:
They are to plug the holes where the sand is removed from the casting, good time to check out how much crud is inside the water jacket.

Richard

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:24 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Yes, now is the best time to clean-out all the rust scale and "mud" that has collected at the back of the block's water jsckets.

Remove the lower radiator hose off the water pump (or remove the water pump) and also remove the thermostat cover.
Stick a hose into the head, where the theromstat installs and stuff a rag around it to get a seal, then turn-on the water, full power.
Use a long screw driver, long metal ros or coat hanger to poke around inside the water jackets, thru each freeze plug opening, this will break-up more crud so the water can flush it out.

Once flushed, re-install the freeze plugs and other items removed.
Do not use RTV silicon type sealers on freeze plugs, use something "sticky"... I use weather strip adheasive! :shock:
(I have had freeze plugs pop-out and it usually happens at max RPM / engine output... and can get the car " sideways" when that happens) :evil:
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:53 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:07 am
Posts: 26
Car Model:
Quote:
Yes, now is the best time to clean-out all the rust scale and "mud" that has collected at the back of the block's water jsckets.

Remove the lower radiator hose off the water pump (or remove the water pump) and also remove the thermostat cover.
Stick a hose into the head, where the theromstat installs and stuff a rag around it to get a seal, then turn-on the water, full power.
Use a long screw driver, long metal ros or coat hanger to poke around inside the water jackets, thru each freeze plug opening, this will break-up more crud so the water can flush it out.

Once flushed, re-install the freeze plugs and other items removed.
Do not use RTV silicon type sealers on freeze plugs, use something "sticky"... I use weather strip adheasive! :shock:
(I have had freeze plugs pop-out and it usually happens at max RPM / engine output... and can get the car " sideways" when that happens) :evil:
DD
thank you all for the helpfull replies,i got the brass plugs at $2 each,ill be taking care of this over the weekend,(I use weather strip adheasive!)
weather strip adheasive?sounds good ill give it a try,now if i remove the water pump should i check the timing chain?


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