Okay, I'm planning on replacing my timing chain and gears this Thursday and even though I've read instructions in multiple places and read through a bunch of posts I want to make sure I've got this straight.

From what I gather, the dots on the gears should be in line when piston #6 is at TDC center on the compression stroke. Correct?

If this is the case then I'll probably put something like a coat hanger in where the spark plug goes and watch to see when the piston is at it's highest. But then there's the issue of determining the compression stroke vs. exhaust stroke. Am I correct in thinking that this can be done by getting piston #6 to TDC while watching for the distributor to be pointing to the #6 position?

I want to get everything in the right position before I start taking everything apart.

The other thing that confuses me is the different attitudes people seem to have on this forum about executing this. Most people seem to just say "hey, as long as the dots line up you're all set." Although I have seen other posts/responses that strike fear in my heart, with people warning that a degree wheel (or whatever it's called) should be used. I definitely want to get this done right on the first try but I was also hoping to not have to take off the head off and turn this into a big mathematical endeavor.

Oh, and I already know that the dots on the gears I've purchased are supposed to point to each other so that's not the concern.

What do you all think? SOMEONE SET ME STRAIGHT.

THANKS!

-Matt

Hi Matt.
There are members far more experienced in doing a cam job on the SL6 than me, and I hope someone can answer you better. Start by removing your valve cover and see that both intake and exhaust valves are closed when the piston is at top, then you know that you are at the end of the compression stroke. Using a degree wheel will make it easier to confirm your settings.

Have you seen the FAQ in the engine section?
Make use of the search function and search for 'timing gear mark', and you'll get 75 hits, add an 's' to the 'mark', and you'll get 51 hits. That should at least give you some starting help.

Take a look at Doc's advice in this link too.

Please give us some feedback about your progress.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Hey Olafla, thanks for the reply. And thanks for the tip regarding the valves, that will help me find TDC.

I did the searches you advised and I must admit, while some info is helpful it mostly makes me feel overwhelmed. A lot of the discussions I find myself reading generally seem to be in regards to methods for specifically advancing the cam timing by a certain amount or setting it specifically for a modified engine.

Does anyone know of a simple guide that could help me just to make sure my timing is "stock"? For example, if I line everything up so that the dots are facing each other perfectly when the new gears are installed, are there any ways that I can easily test it and make sure that in no way the degree is off or creating the internal equivalent of a skipped tooth?

My Chrysler service manual and a Haynes manual I have are both very brief and to the point about this. They just say to line up the gears so that the dots face each other. Done. I would like to think that it can be done that easily but based on what I'm reading it DOES sound like doing it that simply could be risky and create room for error. Isn't there any kind of simple test that can be performed afterwords to confirm that my installation it is correct before I put it back together?

And can anyone confirm for me right now that starting with 6th Piston TDC on compression stroke IS where I will be closest to where I wanna be?

THANKS!!!

-Matt

Be sure to use a straight edge when aligning the dots. They can look good to the eye, and still be off by one tooth. Ask me how I know.

Beyond that, you need to be concerned about using the best gaskets, and sealants. It is tricky to get these sealed up tight. If you look for the tips on making sure it does not leak, you will be happier with the final result. I would focus on the information that discusses these issues more than advance and retard ideas. It will run fine set up stock.

Sam

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Stock cam and motor, going dot to dot is useally fine,degreeing a cam is alot more important if you have changed cam and am looking for more HP.MY Opinion.Mark

Read this webpage and focus on step #1 & #4.
http://www.angelfire.com/realm2/autotips/camdegree.html

You should alway check for correct TDC and check that the cam's overlap event is centered over TDC. ( or slightly advanced = more valve open time Before TDC)
You do not need any special tools or a degree wheel to do these checks... you can use the timing tab / mark currently on the engine.
If the overlap event is evenly "split" or slightly advanced, the engine will run well... if not, the engine will still run but it will be low on power, it is that simple.
DD

Thanks for the advice everyone. After careful consideration I decided yesterday to postpone the job one week so I can really get acquainted with what I'm going to do. Sam I will take your advice about a straight edge and Doc I will definitely use the info on that link.

So I take it TDC on the compression stroke of Piston #1 is where I want to land before starting the job? I only ask one more time because I definitely saw more than one reference to people siting piston #6. Bad information going around?

-Matt

TDC is at the same place for pistons #1 & #6... you can use either to check TDC, I actually check both because that tells me if the crank is on "index" or twisted.

Anyway, for your timing set swap, work with cylinder #1, that is easier.
DD

What is the protical for installing a cam and timing set in an engine that does not yet have the head installed? Wait until the head IS installed?

It's easy to find TDC without the head..............


I'd do it without the head.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

It is not my intention to take over this thread, but welcome to the forum, counterman6!
If you have your engine dismantled, you can benefit greatly from sifting through these links on building an engine, Best of Doctor Dodge in the engine section FAQ. Take a look at the Tech Articles link too.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

When I recently did my first cam swap, I was also intimidated by the degreeing process. It took me a couple of (short) days, but eventually it made sense and worked out exactly. I initially lined up the dots, but was off by 1 tooth when I checked it with the wheel and runout gauge. Afterward, I felt like a pro, and it was worth the headache.