Is there anyway to remove the neutral safety switch without having all the transmission fluid pouring out?

Not that I know of, it's a big hole so there will come a lot of fluid out of there in a short time, you can use something to plug the hole but alot of fluid will come out anyway even if you are very quick doing it.

Jack the back end of the vehicle way up so all the fluid runs to the front of the transmission?

Reed's got the right idea: jack the car up and support it properly in such a way that the fluid runs away from whichever part of the transmission you're working on. So you'd want to jack up and properly support the left side of the car. Put it at as much of an angle as you can safely do to minimize leakage. Or else just resolve that now's a good time for a fluid and filter change!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Aww, where's your sense of adventure Dan? Just kidding. I assumed that anyone who was going to be jacking a car up and crawling underneath would have the good sense to block the front wheels and properly support the rear with jack stands.

However, I second the motion to just do a fluid and filter change, and maybe a band adjustment while you are in there.

If you had a real sense of adventure you'd just do it on the fly! How much fluid can it leak if your fast!!

PS Don't wear clean clothes when you do this! Aw, and a picture when your done.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I actually have replaced the neutral start switch and even the speedo gear in a fully loaded auto tranny that was installed in a vehicle and that was flat level. Not much fluid leaked out at all. The bigger issue is clearance between the floor pan and the switch. There is very little working room.

So it turns out my garage doesn't have all the space in the world, which means that jacking the car up in such a way that the fluid won't spill is completely impossible.
So I just resolved to removing the switch and plugging it with a balled up plastic bag. Just a few drops were spilled and the switch was replaced.
The funny thing? Still no back up lights.

What year/model car?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

'69 Dodge Dart Swinger. Automatic with the shifter on the steering column.

With key on, check and see if you have approx 12volts on one of the end wires (not the center wire)of the neutral safety sw connector. If you do, jumper the two end wires of the connector, and see if your BU lites come on. If they come on the problem is either the switch or the Part inside the trans that pushed the switch. If they donot come on the problem is either bad bulds, or the wire from the switch to the socket, or a bad groundat the socket.
If you do not have 12 v at the connector, the problem is between the fuse block and the connector. EI, blown fuse, bad connection at the bulkhead connector, etc.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

So jumper the two outside connectors from the female connector, right? What should I use? Would a paper clip work?

That is correct. A paper clip should work just fine. Make sure it is not one of those color coated clipe. Must be a plain one.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

So yea, they didn't come on. I know the wires from the bulbs to the front are fine, but I'm not sure about the rest.

Do you have 12 volts on one of the outside connector terminals?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225