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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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i've got 3 holes now in my lines..i'm thinking of making my own/
anyone done it.
I found these peeps

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SA ... 4A&Click=2

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:36 pm 
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Not yet, but it's on my to-do list!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 6:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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any idea how long ( total length of line need to purchase) for a 1968 Dodge Dart going to a Trans cooler in front of the radator?
I trying to do a ruff cost on this move.
thanks.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:12 am 
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Hey Jon,

Your local NAPA store might also be able to hook you up! Many of them make hydraulic lines to your specifications. That way you're dealing with an actual person at the counter as well.

I'll be over at the garage tonight. I'll try to get a rough measurement for you. The ones on the Challenger (now Duster) are much longer than needed, but I should be able to get a ballpark measurement.

If you run a string along your current hard line you can get a pretty good idea of the length you'll need.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:17 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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thanks
just called NAPA in Laurel/Amryland 13.5 miles from me
they only make Hydrolic lines/rubber outside/steel brade inside/said he would not recomend they with headers
they do have very high internal pressure strenght.

$3 per foot ruff costs.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:31 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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I found this
stock factory design stainless steel hard lines
they do not make braded lines as per my telephone conversation with them
it gives me something to think
http://www.classictube.com/store/index. ... _ID=186846

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:34 pm 
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To make braided lines you will need roughly 10 feet of hose and your fittings. I haven't bought any braided hose for a while, but I'd guess it will be around $5 a foot, and fittings will be around $8 each.

Even braided hose needs to be run as far away from your headers as you can get. It will still burn up if it touches a tube.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 5:28 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Silver Spring, Maryland U.S.A.
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budget
budget
budget

3 holes patch in trans steel lines
now a new trans hole
no more patching these lines here/there

went and bought
full length HD rubber line
installed no leaks yet
but I pryed off the frame/headers to remove the steel lines
now rusty drivers side brake line that crosses over has a nice hole
removed brake line in 3 pieces
that line was as week as a broken brantch hanging by the bark
now trying to find a correct brake line..
any thoughts?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:46 am 
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They do make pre-bent lines, but they are pricey and a pain to install from what I hear. Any local auto parts store will also carry various lengths of steel line with fittings already attached.

That's what I used to replace the rear section on the GodsRods Duster. I got a couple lengths with an adapter to connect them. Total cost was under $20 I believe.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 11:22 am 
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Supercharged
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Look here, here, Year One as well, or get a 25 foot roll of bendable copper brake line and bend up your own with new fittings.

You will need a double flaring tool, brake tube fitting wrench, and a bunch of wire ties. Just wire tie new tubing to old line following its bends to replicate a new line that will fit nicely into your car.

Having just completed brake work on both of my cars, purchasing a good made in USA flair tool, and roll of tubing will cost more than just the preformed lines that are needed to do the front brake system of your car. How ever once you have the tool, subsequent hard line replacement jobs become more cost effective.

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