Thank you Charlie, I stand corrected. I thought the timing dots lined up at #1TDC on the compression stroke. If the dots line up at TDC on the exhaust stroke, then Slanty 6 is doing everything right. My sincerest apologies for giving incorrect information.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No problem. It would seem logical to have the sprockets line up dot to dot, at #1 TDC compression, but that is not the case. The first time I tried to degree a slant cam, I was confused, and thought the sprockets were mismarked, but that is just how it is done.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I just learned something new too! I always thought the same thing Reed did.

Thanks Charlie!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

OK, good I'm not crazy. (somebody tell my wife that ).Thank you Charlie for clarifying this for me. I truly appreciate it.

I found TDC—it was behind the sofa all along!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Please!...we live in Western Canada now.....say Chesterfield!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sandy: Remember Dan is Canadian on paper, not natural born, hence most likely the lingo slip.

In Maine we say; just because the cat has kittens in the oven don’t make them muffins.

I offer an international lingo compromise: Davenport.

A little burning question of one that parks endlessly on a Davenport: would he be called a Chesterfield Potato?

That kind’ah grates on one ear, there ah?

LOL

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I found TDC—it was behind the Marlboro all along!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Line up the dots, and see if you can make to the bed before you stumble and fall... Make sure you have a plastic trash can nearby. Cams are for sissy's anyway, I use F1 spec pneumatic valve actuation with computer control!!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

............we call them.....teenagers.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Allright boys, swinging this a bit more on track now I got a few more questions.

1) Shouldn't there be an oil slinger disk somewhere between the crank snout and sprocket/ timing chain cover ? I could be thinking of one of the industrial engines at work so please excuse me..

2) Do I need to drop oil pan slightly to get the "wedges" of the timing chain cover bottom gasket in ? Or just the bolts that I removed to get the cover out ?

3) Use regular pipe "dope" on one timing chain cover mounting bolt that threads into a coolant passage way ?

Possibly. Some got them, some didn't.
Yes and no. You are supposed to drop the pan a bit to get wedges seated. However, I leave the pan in place, put a bit of RTV sealant in each corner, and force the timing chain cover in place. It works for me.
Not necessary. If you want, run a tap through the threads and run the bolts through a die to clean up the threads, but no sealant or putty is necessary.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.