Lou, remember when we put my 3200 Cuda on the dyno at Pittsburg?
204 rwhp, then ran 13.5's an hour later, under exactly the same weather conditions as the dyno.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I remember it well. How about a big glass of shut the !@#$ up...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

How much flywheel HP did the Cuda make? Just curious of what percentage of loss through the power train.
Thanks Derek

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70 Duster 238'', four speed ,3:91's, 500 Elde, Hookers
68 Dart 4 dr 225, completely original

It is just over 20% loss with a 904 and <3000 stall converter, according to Cameron Tilley's testing (engine and chassis dynos). Manual trans is probably more like 12-15% loss.

The cool thing about Charlie's dyno pull (nitrous) is that the HP curve was dead flat from 2500 - 6000+RPM. Yes, you read that right. The torque started way high (400 ft-lbs??) and dropped linearly through the pull. So, his peak HP was the same as his average HP, whereas most engines have a pronounced HP peak at higher RPM.

The Slantkota engine has made up to about 220 average flywheel HP on the dragstrip (by a calculator and trap speed), and the 64 Dart about 260 flywh HP, and the turbo '68 Dart just over 300 flywh HP, but those are average numbers and the peaks will be higher.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That's the double edge sword to nitrous, instant torque. Can be good for acceleration, can be bad for parts longevity.

I have seen many Procharged cars on the dyno. The torque is flat on them too.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Back to Greg's thread. If you guys keep cutting things off you will soon have a rail !!! Not a door slammer The frame is tied together right!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

as long as the doors are duct taped to the rail, it`s a door car! i think!

yep I have The frames Tied.. I am also looking at lightening the K member as well - An alton type front end would cost me ~$2-4K If can keep the intergerity of the k frame while cutting some of it out and replacing it with tube or channel I would be delighted


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

We can mix up a shipping container full of acid...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Car's metal was already thin enough from the Salt water mix from being on pittsburgh roads 1968-2003.

Acid could be scary :-0


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Container full of acid???The 10 to 20 hits I did in my youth altered me just enough.MY OPINION.Guzzi Mark

That's AWESOME! What was your starting weight again?

Your dedication to "looking in 1600 places and removing an ounce" has certainly paid off!

I hope to copy some of your techniques on the Duster at some point.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Are you doing car weight with driver or just car weight?I normally weigh 185lbs,went on diet before I went for A gas record,got down to 170lbs.I will diet again just before Vegas,,alot easier for me to lose 10-15 lbs than to get it out of car.My lowest weight with me in the car with 2 gal of gas was 2336 with me weighing around 175 lbs.Nitrious system is gonna add about 40lbs so thats why I am wacking more and will bee on a diet before Vegas.Mark

Hi Mark, That Figure is with Me out of the car - My race ready weight is 222# with jacket, Helmet, and gear, etc.

@Rob Simmons - at the end of last Year Before I Began any cutting etc The car was 2595..


Today I was able to hack out 4# of stuff from the Passenger Door, and the Passenger Fender, and From the "Spotweld Seam" around the Front Passenger Door - I am going to cut the "Spotweld Seam" area out of all 4 doors and I am going to cut the rear doors off the car - hopefully remove `~20# from them and then weld them back on. I also have some aero Ideas for in front of the rear tires and To get the Sides of the car low to the ground.

Calculated Weight today -4# = 2243.5 I did add weld to the Seams where I cut off the Spotweld areas, but most of that got ground away flat

26 Pics of th progress:

In These Pics I am Cutting the Top of the fender to raise it to match the angle of the Raised hood in the back.. AKA AERO FENDERS!




















Here I am Welding the Seam on the fender Back together a bit to add some rigidity.


More Boogery Weld goodness - I will grind it smooooth!


Welding on seam complete





Every weld has to get the obligatory coat of black - Either satin gloss or flat - This time it's flat.


Adding A Piece of.025" AL sheet to fill the Gap for the AERO FENDER








Cutting Some More weight From The Passenger door - Hope I dont get caught in any wind storms!








Lots Lighter Now!


This Is the original Look of this area with the Pinch/spotweld area - All 4 doors have these and even under the hood has areas like this as well.
I plan for now to cut out the metal for all 4 doors and Re-weld the seams flush and then grind them smooth!

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Your as nuts as me.Is it ok to post pics of my latest cuttings in this thread?Mark