Hi,
I have been back to this website many times looking for help on my 1973 Scamp, this time its brakes. I have been aquiring the parts to do the swap up to discs on my 9x2.5 drummed beast, and now I am stuck in a decision. I have the spindles and caliper brackets to use the 11.75 rotor with Pin-type calipers, but the calipers I have are slider-type off of a 74 Dart. I either buy new calipers that are pin-type or have to find new brackets that are slider. Has anyone had any experience with either type or have anything bad to say about them. I have also considered the CA1200 brackets made to fit the Wilwood Dynalite calipers, but I have heard Wilwood calipers lack the weather seal around the piston for serious daily drivers like myself. Please help. Thanks!
dome_rbc@yahoo.com

I prefer the slider over the pin type since they are slightly more rigid. But you may need to remachine the slide area on the caliper adapter in order to get them to work smoothly.

The Wilwood conversion is designed for drag racing although Lou does use it successfully on the street and the road courses. Pad life can be fairly short with the Wilwood calipers. Maybe Lou will weigh in and tell us what his experience is.

Personally I prefer the Viper caliper hung on 11.75 rotors. The Viper caliper is a little heavier than the Wilwood, but it is a much more rigid design and has huge brake pads.

Weighing in here...

I can only tell you my somewhat limited experiences so far.

The Wilwood calipers work very well on my car, which is just under 3000lbs with me in it. They will work the road course all weekend, and have been great on the street too. Anyone who has had a ride can tell you that these brakes are serious business.

I got 4 track events and about 12k miles out of the first set of pads (Polymatrix D pads, would have gone longer on street, but had to switch for track inspection - just below 1/4" thick), and I have just started the second set. My guess is that the pads would be good for at least 20-30k miles without racing, which takes a big toll.

I've driven in heavy rain many times and on a few dirt roads, and the caliper pistons looked fine when I swapped pads this spring. I think the lack of dust seals is overplayed, unless you are driving in extreme dusty conditions or winter.

Of course, if the Viper calipers are similar price or not too much more, then they are probably a better choice for a pure street car.

Happy stopping,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I might have a set of slider type brackets (standard disc brake for A-body) I would be able to sell/part with. I won't be able to dig them out until monday afternoon due to the weekend schedule.

let me know if interested,

-D.Idiot

My understanding is the Viper set up is expensive. How expensive are they Andy? What esle do you need to make them work? Calipers, etc.
I haven't been 100% happy with either the sliders or the pin type. I have had both. The sliders can be noisey going over bumps, as there is metal against metal that can have a little play in it. Also, as Andy pointed out, if the top of the slider adapter is worn, the pads hang up in the grooves, and don;t release reliably, thus wearing out pads early, and hurting gas mileage. My pin type just don;t seem to brake as straight as the sliders. Maybe it is something else, but everything is new except the adapters. I may eventaully follow Lou's lead here.

The mounting kit for the Viper calipers runs about $175 depending on who you buy it from. Then you need calipers, pads and hoses. The calipers are super expensive if you buy them new ($500 each) but they can often be found for sale used. Check the Viper web boards for sale sections.

No way to get the viper calipers on a 4" boltpattern ?

Mopar Action did an article a couple of months ago where they did the Viper caliper install on the Green Brick.

John

It was longer ago than a couple of months but yes they did do a nice article on the Viper brake conversion. That was the first Viper conversion kit that I built and Eberg ran it hard on the One Lap race. I was glad that the kit worked great as I would have really regretted being responsible for killing the best tech editor in the Mopar world!

I'm happy to report that my Dart with pin type Mopar calipers and disks now stops straight. All I did to eliminate its squirliness was lubricate the guide pin bushings with a dab of disk brake wheel bearing grease. I also removed the anti-rattle springs, 'cause it looked like it interfered with free movement of everything. What a difference!. Does anybody know where I can get new guide pins? These are really worn.

Posting this for a friend:

HELP!
Anyone using Wilwood Disc Brakes?
Bought a kit from Wilwood.
Seemed like a good deal.
However my mechanic has heard that they are junk.
He believes that if I hit a pothole at 30 MPH I'll break the rotor or spindle or something.
Have you heard anything about this?
 
I haven't opened the box from Wilwod yet, so I suppose I could send them back.
 
Thanks
JR

_________________
'65 Slant Six Barracuda
St. Louis Area Mopars (SLAM)

I'm interested in the Wilwood feed back also. How about it? What's the scoop on these parts and kits?

The Wilwood kit uses a very lightweight aluminum hub and a small, lightweight rotor. This kit is designed for drag racing not street driving or road racing. It is important to use parts in the application for which they are designed!!!

There is nothing wrong with the Wilwood kit for a drag race car. I'd never use it on a street driven car where things like pot holes, curbs and other hazards exist. It also won't last very long on a road race car since the small rotors do not have enough thermal mass to absorb the heat of multiple stops.

That is the reason why my company designed the adapter kit to hang the lightweight Wilwood caliper onto the factory 11.75 rotor. It gives you a way to reduce the unsprung weight but still keeps the OEM designed cast iron hub AND the big heavy rotor for plenty of thermal mass. It is a compromise but so is everything else on your car.

Great feedback. Thanks. Your setup must be what Dart270 (Lou) has on his '64 Dart. He swears by it. I will eventually give that setup a try. The B body brakes work pretty well on the Dart, so I will probably wear them out a little before changing them.