hey everyone, i had my slant running pretty good before it sat over the winter. once i had it parked i did a compression check (with all the plugs out) and found low compression across all cylinders, after checking and setting the clearance while running (as hot as i could get it) i got my compression up to 110ish in all vs 80 ish across. Anyway since the intial compression check i have devolped a miss at idle, and when i tried to drive it when i hit the gas it bogs and and pops, from a stand still or roll. it drove fine before i ever did the first compression check and i have slack in the timing chain (which is going to be replaced) but it drove fine last year with the slack. I found what i think is pretty close to TDC in #1 (using a pick in the bore for feel)and had the balancer at the timing mark at zero, and then took the pic of the rotor, to me it seems early but i am new at this, what do you guys think? My thought is that the chain jumped when i did the compression check with no plugs in it since there is slack and was not load on the engine.

I rebuilt the carb over the winter since i had a kit and a new float anyway, the carb was put through an ultrasonic cleaner multiple times so should be good to go. I also get a good healthy shot of fuel when i hit the throttle linkage by hand so i think my accelerator pump is working fine (its new with the rebuild)

the engine is in a 78 D100 from california but i am not sure if its the original engine or distributor.

any thoughts on the rotor position? or other things to check?

It seems my post a pic didn't work, I made the same post on moparts so if u copy the link you can see the pic, any sugguestions would be a great help! Thanks

You will need to put the photo on a hosting site. Like photobucket.

once you do that, link it here.

Photos on Moparts and so forth are only visible to people logged into those sites.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ok thanks for the tip! I will work on that tomorrow so everyone can see, but untill then the rotor position is just past what would be 6 o'clock towards the number 1 point on the dist. Cap. Its still pretty far from the contact point of the rotor and cap. TDC seemed to line up with the 0 mark on the dampner so I don't think its slipped, but again I am new to this sort of problems Any suggestions welcome, thanks!

What firing order are you using?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

just stock i believe, didnt know there was a few

I'll try to help. You need to go back to the basics. Your valve lash is probably to tight. Reset the lash for a cold motor, your timing chain is likely fine and your damper is not the problem either. Cars are simple. Add gas plus spark and they generally run. Go back and check and recheck every adjustment on the carb. They are very specific usually down to the 32nd of and inch and the order in which you set them is important. Do not assume that the idle air gap and other internal settings are correct. That is the number one problem with rebuilt carbs, lack of attention to detail when setting them to specs. And don't believe any carb guy that says he can fix you car, famous liars most of them. Good luck and don't give up, but expect to make mistakes if you are a beginner, some of them may be expensive.

There is only one firing order. If everything was fine before doing a compression check and your problem started after, it sounds like you have your plug wires out of order. There isnt really anything else that would go bad or wrong that fast.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

I would agree... go back to basics, firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Clockwise rotation of the distributor.

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

Where is the rotor in relation to #1 on the cap?

The wires have to be in order, but you can start from any tower on the cap as long as the rotor is phased correctly.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

If you have a slack timing chain you will find it difficult to verify ignition or valve timing.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....