so finished the rear disc 8 1/4 jeep brake swap onto my Chrysler 8 1/4, bleed the brakes, and they are still mushy, and i have the brake light on, on the dash. Its weird if i pump the brakes quickly the light goes out, but the pedal is still almost hitting the floor !! I may end up getting a vacuum bleeder and suck the lines clean. I have bleed the brakes 3 times and still mushy brakes, I have triple checked all the connections for leaks and found none. Also when I have the wife pump the brakes brake fluid squirts straight up out of the rear hole in the brake fluid reservoir (rear brakes), I find that odd. thoughts comments suggestions are needed lol


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

What master cyl did you use?
Also check for excessive movement of the calipers, when stepping on the pedal. The calipers should barely move. If they move too far, it will feel like air. I just replaced a leaking MC on a 87 Reliant. Couldn't get a good pedal. Even though the front pads had good material left, the "shims" on the back were not flat, and were acting like springs, pushing the caliper back too far. This made the caliper move too much when pressing the pedal. New set of pads, good to go.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Its the stock 2 bolt 15/16 master gonna get new pads for the rear there is about 1/8 of material left fronts still got over 1/4 left. The calipers barely move like they should.


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Will that MC work with disc brakes on the front and rear?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Dunno why it wouldn't. Car came with the 10.75in rotors up front and 10in drums in the rear, if anything it should lock the rears up sooner, I don't know gonna get the vacuum bleeder and see if that helps

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

also should have mentioned the fact I had a plug in the prop valve for the rear brakes, was running only front for a bit. master seemed like the real seal was shot, almost no fluid pressure to the rear brakes, so I just replaced with a master i rebuilt, seems a little better. when bleeding the rear brakes the pedal should still hit the floor right ?? when we bleed the rear right then rear left, pedal went down just a lil bit not much, when we did the fronts it hit the floor each time.......... any ideas whats causing that, or is it normal ??


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I had a similar problem when I replaced the MC on my drag car.I ended up getting a 85 ish, Dodge truck MC, as my drag car has disks all around.I had to take the proportioning valve apart, and really clean it, and blow it out with air.After that, I got good peddle, before the cleaning it was like a sponge.
Just my 2 cents.

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

may have to wait on the MC search in the boneyard, deploying tomorrow night for 17 days I will clean the prop valve, never took one apart though, so this should be intresting, btw I have never seen a prop valve like mine its all aluminium, the rest i have saw are cast iran and rusty as all hell lol

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I thought they were all brass? It wasnt bad to take it apart..I think I payed $35 for my MC, and it was aluminum.

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Wife's: 64 Valiant
My: 70 Road Runner, 67 Barracuda, AND the 62 Valiant drag car!!

Yea my bad, ment brass lol I pulled the prop valve all apart, and cleaned it, is the "shuttle valve" thingy that seperates the front and rear brakes, is that supposed to freely slide back and forth or is it supposed to be pretty snug in the bore ??

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Not real snug, but thats what triggers the light, it gets 'off-center' and trips the light if i understand that circuit.... Havent really paid alot of attention to them as far as drag on the "shuttle" valve. (for lack of knowing proper name)

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MRO....

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.... Pick 2...

My 2 cents:
I don’t understand why anyone would trust a junkyard master cylinder where brakes are the top safety system in your car, and a newly manufactured unit is so inexpensive.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

For the core charge silly, if I planned on keeping it it would get rebuilt, gonna go hunting Monday and see what I can find for junk mc's, and see what's available,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I would suggest a new, not rebuilt, MC. It costs a few bucks more but not much if you consider it is a 50/50 chance that you will get to do it all over again with a rebuilt one. With new you don't need a core either.

Ask me how I know about rebuilt ones leaking!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Even new is no garuntee, any more. Just recently had two bad "new" master cyls, for a 87 Reliant. They leaked out the pushrod end. Third one was OK.
I just love doing a job 3 times and getting paid once.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225