I'm a little confused by the findings here, I'm sure you are as well ! Now,resistance between coil pos and neg terminals is indicating open circuit? If so coil is toast,use your old canister for troubleshooting.
The b term on HEI module should have power,full steady power,12v
The pos term on coil should be the same as above,full power
The neg coil term goes to the "c" term on the HEI module ( forgive me if that's not the correct letter,but its the other terminal on the module next to the pos terminal
Now ,remove the wire coil neg,attach one wire of test globe to it and the other wire of test globe to the wire you just removed...ie wire the globe in series.
Crank engine,light should flash
If no flash then you probably have an issue with you trigger,did you check your reluctor gap and the wiring connectors? Did you fix up that earth screw on the module? It needs a good contact as I've mentioned before for heat transfer,electronic noise and to be able to earth the circuit form the coil neg wire.
Did I read you are running msd 5 ohm wires? I'm not familiar with them,but they should be suppression wires, 5 ohms sounds like solid core wires.
Dan did a fine job putting together info on this site,but its not " dans conversion" it's been done to thousands of different cars around the world so don't feel your sailing uncharted waters here
I'm personally running pertronix module and .6 ohm canister coil with magnecor suppression wires and zfr5n,with a tired battery it still starts fine,the limiting factor is being able to crank it over,not getting spark.
Hang in there.....you'll win!

Hey Charrlie,
Alright.
Alright.
Kind of suspected that THAT was the case.
All I have is a Radio Shack Multi-Tester. Will THAT do?
Alas, do not have a Brass Feeler Gauge.
Am going to have to find something non-magnetic that is .008 thick.
Alright.
Don't know what the "cranking" Voltage is, but the Battery is a brand NEW NAPA Legend 75, and should be plenty strong.
Alright.
The NAPA Echlin TP45 Control Module has a Dedicated Ground Strap going from the Front of the Module Mounting Screw to a Valve Cover Hold-Down Bolt.

Thanks for the VERY informative response.

JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Find a thick business card. Some are made of plastic which are about that thick.
Not my first choice or a good enough ground. Pick a chassis ground or go to the battery to be sure.....

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hey Mr. E,
The wiring is all NEW, the Connectors are clean and tight.
The Battery is a NAPA Legend 75, almost 13 Volts, Cranking Amps: 1075 @ 32 degrees F, Cold Cranking Amps: 835 @ 0 degreed F.
The check for spark was done with the Spark Plug in the Spark Plug Wire Boot and laid against a ground. The only thing that would be different would be the compression, which in Lorrie is not all that high.
Alright.
All the Wires in Lorrie's Electrical System are 12 and 10 gauge.
Have seen that page. Strangely, the Adobe Acrobat Reader garbles the text to where it is unreadable! Wouldn't you know?
Might run a direct wire from the Battery's "+" Post to the "B" Terminal of the NAPA Echlin TP45 Control Module.
Think I will pass on THAT. Am not wanting to hurt the Starter. The NAPA Legend 75 Battery is plenty powerful.

Will be doing everything step-by-step as Charrlie suggested.

I just got out my Feeler Gauges, and took a look at the 0.008 Blade. IIRC, when looking at the Reluctor Tooth in relation to the Pickup Tooth in the Distributor, it looked somewhat wider than what the 0.008 Feeler Gauge looks to be. Will check THAT tomorrow.

Anyway, hope we are going to get this solved. If nothing else, this has been a GREAT education.

Hope you are well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Steve,
Am almost past confusion, heading for anarchy!
NO. We're getting a reading of .7 Ohms between the "+" and "-" Terminals of the Ignition Coil, but a reading of Infinity between the "+" and the Output Tower, and a reading of Infinity between the "-" Output Tower of the Ignition Coil.

Also, we're getting a light with the Test Light between the Ground and the "+" of the Ignition Coil, and between the Ground and the "-" of the Ignition Coil.

AND we're getting no "blinking" of the Test Light when the Engine is cranked. Charrlie says that the FIRST THING that is needed is to get THAT trigger signal from the Distributor, which tests at 277 Ohms.
Have found that NAPA in Livingston has a replacement for the Standard Blue Streak FD478X for less than $40.00 and am going to get that, hopefully today to have on hand for troubleshooting, as to use the old canister Ignition Coil would entail having to rewire.
It HAS full and steady 12.XX Volts depending on the Battery charge!


It too HAS full and steady 12.XX Volts depending on the Battery charge!
"C" IS te correct letter. And THAT is where the "-" Wire FROM the Ignition Coil is connected to the Control Module.
Do you mean to DISCONNECT the "-" FROM the Ignition Coil from the Control Module and test between it and the "C" Terminal of the Control Module for "flashing" (blinking) when the Engine is cranking?

Have NOT been DISCONNECTING the "-" Wire from the "C" Terminal to see if it would blink. Will try THAT at first light this morning.
That's what Charrlie has suggested.
NO. But plan on doing THAT today.
The Wiring and Connectors are both NEW and CLEAN, and am getting a reading 277 Ohm when testing between the TWO Wire connected to the Distributor.
YES. It is solid, well connected and grounded to the Engine Block via a Valve Cover Hold Down Bolt.
It is in place and functioning.
YES. They are MSD 8.5mm Wires with 5 Ohm of resistance per foot of length. $100.00 a set. Am running them on the 1964 Galaxie and they are Fine.
They ARE solid Copper Alloy Core wires.
Well, doing this kind of thing is "uncharted waters" for ME.
Am getting .7 Ohms between the "+" and the "-" of the FD478X Ignition Coil, BUT a reading of Infinity between the either the "+" or the "-" Terminals of the Ignition Coil and its output Tower.

[/quote]Hang in there.....you'll win![/quote]

This has turned into an ordeal of dogged perseverance!!!

Anyway, it's onward through the fog.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Ted,
Am hopefully going to be going to Livingston today and will get a set of Brass Feeler Gauges.
Alright. Will give THAT a try.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Thursday Morning Update:

Have been to Livingston in Dale, the Welder's Truck. Got a NEW NAPA Echlin IC24 Ignition Coil. It LOOKS like the FD478X, except it is Black. Am hoping that the Connector will fit.

Also got a set of Brass Feeler Gauges.

So it has been a VERY active (at least for me) morning, and am going to have to take a break. Maybe have something to eat, and then will be un-installing the HEI System Assembly, changing out the Ignition Coils. Then removing the Distributor Cap and seeing what the Reluctor Gap is set at.

Am going to, if it is more than 0.008, readjust it.

Is there anything that has to be watched-out for.

Have done some research on the subject of Reluctor Gap Adjustment and one of the things is to make sure that all the Reluctor Teeth are not hitting the Pickup Tooth. And that includes when the Centrifugal and Vacuum Advance Assemblies are working.

Is there a way to know THAT?

Any heads-ups as far as Reluctor Gap Adjustment would be GREATLY appreciated.

Will, of course, keep the updates coming.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Well Guys,
Am sitting here with both the OLD Standard Blue Streak FD478X Ignition Coil AND the NEW NAPA Echlin IC24 Ignition Coil sitting on the bench.

Have tested each of them for resistance.

The FD478X has 8.51 K Ohms between both the "+" and "-" Terrninals and the Center Post.

The IC24 has 7.81 K Ohms between both the "+" and "-" Terminals and the Center Post.

And both have .6 Ohms between the "+" and "-" Terminals.

There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with either of them.

Tested the Distributor for voltage by hooking the MultiMeter Probes to the two Wires coming from the Distributor, and cranked the Engine to make the Distributor turn.

All the Multi-Meter did was flash a bunch of numbers on the Digital Read-Out, but I couldn't read them, they happened so fast.

Anyway, am going to reassemble the HEI System Assembly with the NEW NAPA IC24 Ignition Coil installed.

And before the Assembly gets reinstalled, am going to check the Reluctor Gap.

Will let you know what is found.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey All,
Thursday Afternoon Update:

May have found the gremlin.

Checked the Reluctor Gap.

It is 0.014!

Tried to move the Distributor Shaft nearer and further from the Pickup Tooth, and it wouldn't move more than 0.001.

Am going to adjust the Reluctor Tooth to Pickup Tooth Gap to 0.008.

Will let you know how THAT goes when finished.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Getting closer!

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey All,
Thursday Afternoon Update:

Got the HEI System Assembly reinstalled.

Adjusted the Reluctor Tooth to Pickup Tooth to EXACTLY 0.008".

Lorrie is all back together.

Just as I was finishing, the wind started to blow REALLY hard, and it started to rain. So I cleaned up the Tools&Materials and beat a hasty retreat back to the confines of the Sound/Music Studio where the Computer is.

Am going to go out tomorrow morning, run all the usual test to see if everything is getting electricity where it should be and make sure that there is no electricity where it shouldn't be.

Then will see if Lorrie will Start&Run.

Will let you all know what happens then.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Reed,
Am feeling like the old Turtle that was trying to cross the finish line, but it could only go half way to the line each day. There was always half the distance to the finish line left to go. The poor old turtle never did cross the finish line.

Anyway, we will see in the morning if what was done today will induce Lorrie to finally Start&Run.

Will just have to wait and see.
Time will tell.
Be well,
JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

.014" is pretty big, over 1.5 times the recommended tolerance....mopar quality control can be less than ideal, mind you, I don't think I'd like the job of setting reluctor gaps all day ! It's great you found something, that gap wouldn't help your starting at all. The rambling numbers on the multimeter is good enough for me to feel the pickup is working and producing a signal, maybe just not a strong one with the large gap. On another subject... Coil and plug wires, I would run suppression type wires if it was me, those solid cables are race only and put out lots of noise, you now have electronics on board lorrie, ie vr and hei, will the noise cause a problem I don't really know for sure, but if you reluctor wires go anywhere near those msd cables I'd be worried about false signals.... Just my thoughts here, maybe someone has more experience here, but for a few bucks for a decent set of suppression cables it may be good insurance.

I will have to start calling you Sisyphus! Not that I think you are deceitful, though.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hey Steve,
Another .002 and it would have been double the specified gap.
Have to agree. Once upon a time was working for Larson Boats on an assembly line. Lasted a month.
Hopefully the Gap was the problem all along.
Well, one of the guys over at FordMuscle noted that the MultiMeter should have been set to read Alternating Current.
Just went and got the package in which the MSD Cable came. Let me quote what it says on the box:

"HIGH EMI SUPPRESSION
Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) is a magnetic field that radiates from all spark plug wires. This field will interfere with on-board electronics, ignitions, rev limiters and can even be heard in your speakers. Even with its low resistance, the 8.5mm SC wire has outstanding EMI suppression capabilities. The copper alloy conductor is tightly wound in a special fully stacked manner around a ferro-magnetic impregnated center core. In fact for every foot of plug wire, there is over 40 feet of conductor windings! This winding procedure combined with the special material creates a highly effective EMI choke."
The Wires from the Distributor are about 4" below the "drool tubes". The Electronic Voltage Regulator is about 20" away, from the Spark Plug Wires. When Lorrie was running, there wasn't any kind of problems.


Let's see how these MSD Wires work out. If anything shows up, will have to do what you suggest.

Thanks for the heads up though.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor