I have ditched the original lean burn system on my '82 W-150 and have bought a kit with a 5-pin regulator. The system uses a double ballast resistor. Problem is, there are obscure references in the installation instructions on how to wire the alternator that seem to contradict themselves. The alternator has two field connectors. I checked Paul Moran's wiring guide, but he leaves out the alternator connections. Any suggestions gratefully accepted.

Dave[/img]

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

I'd use the diagram at the bottom of the article marked electronic that shows everything that hooks up in EVR circuit in 1973+ vehicles. Ignition modules are 4 or 5 pin, the EVR is 2 pin-triangular if stock 1970+ mopar.

-D.Idiot

Lemme see if I have this right. Do you mean my 5-pin ignition module, with the big fat transistor on it, does not do voltage regulation?

Dave

All it does is control the spark.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

That is the MOPAR ECU, that come in various upgrades like the orange box, chrome box, and gold box for racing.

Check red link to view pictures. I am still using the orange box. Like FOPAR says, it controls spark only.

Look at DI's link for what the voltage regulator looks like and how to ground it.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks, guys, for straightening me out. After combing through my boxes of junk, I have concluded that I threw out the old voltage regulator when I started this project over 7 years ago. Ebay to the rescue.

Dave

Well, discarding the VR willcause problems (unless you have an internally regulated alternator) If your wiring and alternator are basically stock, this should help.

http://i1272.photobucket.com/albums/y39 ... 5c3b49.gif

I hope so.

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Be sure and get the new style voltage regulator. Shown on the right hand view of the wiring diagram.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I found the original chrome voltage regulator, but the case is badly rusted and pitted so I'm replacing it anyway. There are over 50 for sale on eBay, but only a few vendors will ship to Canada. Should be here in about 10 days. Thanks for all the help, guys.

Dave

You might try your local auto parts store i bought my VR for about ten bucks.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Whatever VR you get, be sure to check the output voltage at the battery once it's installed. I had one VR from Standard Motor (made in China)that "wanted" 14.8V at the regulator- so it was more like 15.1+V at the battery (what's that smell??).

Got another one from Napa/Echlin- it was the same unit from China with the same overcharge problem.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Question: If you wire directly from alternator stud to starter relay stud (splicing in a fusable link of course), will that cure an overcharging issue?

No, unless there is excessive resistance in the solid wire that runs from the starter relay stud to the (+) battery terminal.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

While it is possible to have a faulty VR that causes an overcharge condition, it is more common to have bad electrical connections somewhere. The VR "senses" voltage at its ignition "run" wire (blue) & its case ground. So it tries to adjust alternator output to keep "run" voltage within its internal limits (something around 14.0V). For a two-wire field alt.- if voltage is low, the VR increases duty cycle to the green wire (increases ground) which increases alt output/ voltage. If voltage goes too high the VR decreases duty cycle/ ground.

If there is electrical resistance in the power or ground circuits to the VR, then the VR will read voltage level incorrectly- in order to "see" 14V the VR will increase alternator output- so you may have 16V at the battery but are "dropping" 2V through bad connections between the battery & the VR.

Possible causes are, battery ground cable at engine, engine to body ground, VR ground to body, ignition switch & connector, bulkhead connections (esp alternator /B+ batt. / ign run), battery stud at starter relay, VR connector.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

That makes sense to me. After running directly from alternator stud to starter relay stud, overcharge disappeared. But, after switching over to Pertronix ignition, car would run for a while then die. I'm assuming that it was due to a voltage drop since I was still going through the resistance ballast. After splicing a jumper wire from one side of the ballast field wire to the ignition wire, car runs fine...so far. I did strip out all the wires associated with the ignition module as I now should have a direct 12volts to the Pertronix. I wiring diagram came in handy before making he jumper wire. I am starting to understand what goes where although there are a couple of small relay boxes that I have never seen before. One may be for the AC but the other, which comes directly off the ballast resistor, has a red plug with 3 connectors in it with a black wire to the fourth connection. Would be really nice if someone make a video of basic wiring and it's function. I still don't understand why a field wire from the alternator runs to the ballast resistor as the primary voltage source.