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 Post subject: new and need HELP!
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 6:53 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: red bluff ca
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my son was given a 74 Dart swinger 225 slant 6 that was not running...we have got the car running good at idle in park or nuetral but as soon as it goes into gear the engine rpm drops by 400 and will barely run. Timing is at tdc, valves were adjusted at .002 intake and .003 exhaust, ( my specs say .001-.003 int and .002-.004 exh) i just rebuilt the single barrel holley. Does this sound like a bad torque converter or am i missing something????? Any help would be appreciated.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
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Try loosening up the valves........ .010 and .020

Try timing at 5 btdc

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 7:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Adjust valve lash at 0.010" and 0.020" Hot assuming a stock cam.

Stock base timing was set at 0° for the '74 model year. It will likely run better with 10° base. Make sure the EGR is functioning correctly, or detonation is likely when pulling a hill. The stock ignition curve probably isn't going to be ideal.

In case you missed it, the head that came on the '74 is a spark plug tube type. The washers on the threaded portion of the plug should be removed. The plugs seat on the spark plug tube at the head. The spark plugs will overheat and can cause detonation if the washers are left on.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:57 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: red bluff ca
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isnt .010 and .020 way loose?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:11 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:58 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Edenton, North Carolina
Car Model:
no.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:13 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: red bluff ca
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ok thanks then!


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 Post subject: Aw jeez...
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
valves were adjusted at .002 intake and .003 exhaust, ( my specs say .001-.003 int and .002-.004 exh)
:o

Those are the specs for the stem to guide clearances when rebuilding the head....FYI

The information in your book for the 10 and 20 will be under the heading "Clearance Between Valve Stem and Rocker Arm Pad (Engine Hot).

Bet it will work great once the lash is correct.

:wink:

x2 on setting the initial to 5 btdc...it will help.


Also, if you rebuilt the Holley 1945, next time for better performance change the main jet to a #60 and set the carb linkages to the settings shown for a 1976, the 1974 jet and settings are very lean and will lack power.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:27 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: red bluff ca
Car Model:
thanks the car definetly runs better with valve lash set right! I can only get 3degrees initial though even with both adustments?? the car still drops about 250 rpm in gear so I have the curb idle set at 900 for 650 in gear? any other thoughts?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 4:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7457
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
There is another adjuster on the bottom of the distributor for the adjuster plate that allows more movement of the distributor.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:04 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Jul 06, 2013 12:53 pm
Posts: 5
Location: red bluff ca
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yes even with that


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7457
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Then you'll need to find TDC and move the distributor a tooth.

CJ

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