Thanks Sandy, Edd, and SIX GUN,

I got the Parts painted today.. Which is tricky to do when you dont really have a good space for painting and it's 17* outside.

I was also able to Get my diyautotune.com 36-1 trigger wheel modified and set up on the Moroso Small Block Chevy mandrel. This involved Drilling the Provided 1/2" Hole out to 1" and Cutting an 1/8 Keyway slot.

Pics:
Valve Cover painted with Coils Assembled, and Vacuum Fitting and Oil Cap Installed.






Lighter K frame Painted Flat Black:






The Diyautotune Trigger Wheel With the Center Hole Enlarged to 1" and an 1/8" keyway notch Cut in it.


The Trigger wheel adds 0.9# as it is 1/8" Steel.


I wanted to do this the right way, with a broach Cutter, but I was able to hack it up and Make a keyway slot on such a thin piece with a small file and a dremel tool. - I also saved ~$50 By not having to buy a Broach Cutter and he Associated 1" mandrel to go with it.



Here are some Shots of the Wheel installed on the Mandrel Drive:















So adding the Trigger wheel Brings Ruster's Calculated weight to:

2091.3#.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Are you still planning to set the engine back some ?

Greg, I have to say you are impressing me with the amount of work you have accomplished! Keep up the good work. You should be ready to go deeper into the 11's by Mason Dixon !!
Things around here are moving very slowly!

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

K member looks great!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

thanks guys,

Romeo, yes I am still planning on doing that, but not this time around.. maybe next year or two..

if I do it now I will never get this thing together until next winter.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I think you will be fine without doing it for now. You got enough on your plate.

I Finally Finished installing the Front Down Tubes. They Tie the Under dash Bar to the Front end.

I will also Be cutting the Front Frame raills off just ahead of the k Frame mounts.. Hopefully this will Make up for some of the weight that the Downtubes and Plates added.

I had trouble getting my fab Shop to bend the 0.058" Wall without Kinking.. so we had to go up to 0.083" wall tube for these.. A bit heavier, but the mandrel bends turned out great. ( you'll see in the Pics)


Here is the weigh in:

At least Check Ruster was 2091.3#
The 2 Plates and 1 Tube Per side were 5.0# Each.. So that added 10#.

So Now ruster is above 2100# again @ 2101.3#






Here are some Shots with the K frame Installed, The Steering/ Suspension all back together and the Downtubes Welded in and Painted.


















Here are some Shots of the Tie in to the Shock Mounts:















Here are some Shots of the Pass through and weld in to the Firewall:






The Tube Was tied in on both the Top and bottom of the Front Rail:












Some shots from the Inside:
















Next : get the doors back on, finish the Inside Tube Details, Wiring, Install Motor, Build Front fender supports etc.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Quality Workmanship!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

You got alot done since I was over 2 weeks ago. Looks good.

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Thanks Sandy & Brian. Progress is Slow and steady I suppose.

I Got a few things done today on the car.

Now that the K frame is installed and Loaded with suspension parts I Decided to Cut the Frame Rails off ahead of the K Frame Mounting bolts, Like Seymour did.












9.4# gone off the Front of the car!



Another 3.4# of stuff that I have been removing off the car, But I had not yet weighed it until today.






At Last Check Ruster was 2101.3#
- 3.4#
- 9.4#
That Puts Ruster Back under the 2100# for the Time Being..
2088.5#
Hopefully I can find Some Lightweight ways to suspend the front bodywork/ fenders/ Airdam etc. .. I have some Ideas.


I also Put the Passenger side Door back on and began on the New Trunk divider Panel (when I put the wheel tubs in and cut out the Package tray and supports in the rear I never made a New one. I will post pics when its all done.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hello, It's another Snowy Weekend Here In Pittsburgh.

A perfect Time to Cuddle up with a Batch of Hot Choclate, Fire up The Drills, Cut off Wheels and Welders and Crank up the Garage Stereo to get some Work done on the RUSTER.

Here's what I was able to accomplish while avoiding snowflakes..

Since I put the Aluminum rear Wheel tubs in I Cut out alot of the Undeeded steel Structure in the Back of the car, Wheel houses, X braces, package tray, etc.

Due to this I had to Redesign the Seperator that Isolates the Passenger compartment from the Battery and Fuel Cell in the Trunk.

This Time Around I made one that used Less Aluminum than the first Gen Seperator which was installed when I actually still had the packege tray.

Maybe sometime I'll gather up all the parts that I cut off (I actually reused the One I had last time).. Just Cut off a bunch off aluminum for proper fitment.. and weight the Bits to See how Much was lost...

I also Made the Rear Glass A bit more sexy looking by Doing a 3/4" black mask around the edge ( as many Racers seem to do now) and then using Black Rivets to hold it down..

PICTURES!!!


YAY, rear Window is back in after Being Removed since November.






Sexy Black Mask:












Here are Many Shots of the Wheel tubs and The Re designed, Recycled separator:





































How many days till that Spring Mason Dixon race 2014???


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I have been able to spend some more time sorting out many, many small little things as I get The Re-engineered front end together.

I got All of the Front Interior bars Painted and The Doors back on.



























Also I was able to get the Line Lock Solenoid Repositioned and mounted, the Breather Tank for the Vacuum System Mounted, and the Oberg Filter Mounted.

I put the Engine in the car for Mockup purposes. It still needs the Head assembled, a Head Gasket, and Pushrods etc.

I was able to plumb the External Pump, Vacuum Pump, and Measure for Belts.

I still have to make a Mount for the crank trigger, Wire the Entire car, and then fabricate supports for the Front fenders, and Hood.

Pics of the Engine Accessory Drive system:
























Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Good looking work.

Hey James!

I was wondering when you would pop in again.

We sure did play tag a lot over the last four years without ever actually meeting up.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Awesome work Greg!!

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Flyin' Brian

74 Duster, 225, rear-mounted blow through turbo at 12psi boost, street/strip car
"Sixy Beast"