Yeah, I'm hoping the pricey bracket from AP will keep the clutch pedal alignment happy:

http://americanpowertrain.com/c-320499- ... l-kit.html

Just need to figure out how to drill the stud out of the clutch pedal. I spent a few minutes of useless effort using a vice and a hand-drill, and it didn't make a scratch. Guess I'm going to need a better drill bit for the adamantium they used.

I was also thinking I could try and saw it off and drill a hole beside where the stud was. Should be plenty of room.

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vm

Mopar knew what metal to make really hard. That is one reason they lasted so long.

Sam

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Grind some of the surface away before drilling, usually gets you to softer metal.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

I was under my dash this morning installing a new tach. Can't figure out why anyone would use the factory linkage location off the pedal. I guess that's why they had to engineer that angle bracket.

I have a straight piece of 5/16" rod with a heim joint coming from the rear most part of the pedal linkage to the MC. I think it's where the factory overcenter spring was. I drilled my own hold to line up with where I bolted the MC, flat on the firewall (with a gusset plate also flat against the firewall). The rod is along the axis of the MC bore for most of the travel.

I know someone is going to ask me post a pic, which I will try to do, but feel free to bother me about it in a week if I haven't done it.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I put a 10" clutch for an early 60's galaxy in front of my mustang T5 on an '80 Volare flywheel and pressure plate. I got the disk and pressure plate from NAPA. The stock plate slipped with the turbo, but the input shaft seal was bad, and leaked on the disk. I honestly think it would have been OK if it had stayed dry.

Sam

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That's good to know, Sam. I'll be pushing a lot less power through my stock pp and Mustang clutch disk, but I was still wondering if (hoping?) it would hold up okay.

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vm