have 66 D100 slant 6 -225. It appears from reading the forum, it may be a better idea to rebuild the original 6 bolt oil pump vs buying a new one. Is that always the case or s there a new pump that would be better than an original? This is just a stock rebuild for daily driving.

appreciate any advice regarding oil pump.
Metal Turkey

If you have a good pump that has a good gear and Camshaft to match it, I would never change the pump.I would try and keep those happy gears together forever. Clean up the relief valve assembly and check the clearances(Factory service manual for specs) and you should be good to go. Do you know what your oil pressure was before?

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Thanks for the advice, the engine had not been run for 26 years, and I did not start it before starting the tear down, so I don't have any oil pressure bench mark. The rebuild shop said the engine looked to be in good condition when I dropped it off. the oil pump does not show any visible signs o repair.

I sent ya a PM.

To give you a bench mark the slant six in Australia uses a different oil pump casting...it has fittings and oil lines running to a remote oil filter on the opposite side of the engine. This is due to steering box clearance in right drive vehicles. There is no new oil pump available,Chrysler Australia have been gone for decades. Every Slant that gets rebuilt in Australia has a used oil pump....as long as you use good rebuild practices and check pump tolerances then there is zero issue.

I wish the Aussie casting was still available. It would be nice to run remote oil pressure lines without needing an adapter.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

So where can a guy get the internals or whatever is necessary to rebuild an oil pump?

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There really isn't any place to get the internals, only the gaskets are available...usually you end up like me with a couple dozen cores from stripping free engines or grabbing what you can at the junkyard, you then put together the set of rotors, rings, springs for the best clearances you can get....Out of the last 15 junkyard pumps I've gotten I had to toss 5 because the internals looked like they digested some carbide coffee grounds and had to be pitched...that being said, since there are literally 3 different pumps with different rotor thicknesses, you won't be able to match much with other pumps with those parts....the oem pumps have better hardness gears and are good to swap onto the "new" Melling pumps...

Keep the oil pump drive gear......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

If your old stock pump is not damaged, it will be totally fine. I have not used a new or rebuilt pump on my last 2 motor builds and oil pressure and delivery is perfect. I just save old pumps from torn down motors that were not damaged due to bearing or other major failure.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I have a factory RHD oil pump and fittings; send me a PM if you'd like to buy it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It is basically the same oil pump, without the filter boss.



I never liked the oil flow restriction, caused by the right angle brass fittings they used but a fitting change and some porting work would likely improve the flow thru one of these pumps.
DD

Thanks for the offer, but getting my old pump worked over by Doctor Dodge

I got the complete kit from Rockauto. $20

Got a part number?
I can find complete pumps or seals and gaskets. No rebuild kit.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--