Are you making sure the batteries are charged before you try starting the car?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The top row are all tight but the bottom kind sort of

And it's only one but no didn't check since I brought it new today

Would the fuel not getting to ALL the cylinders cause it to start and stop so fast?

I'm sorry, I thought the issue was slow cranking and no starting.

You should make sure to charge the new battery or at least test that it has charge.

So, the engine is starting and then stopping or just cranking slowly, please clarify.

brian

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Both. But now after new starter and battery. Also took headers off and put in stock exhaust manifold with the 4bbl. Spins hella faster then it did but no start still. Only a pop and sounds like I hear something sucking .

Now you have her spinning...

You need to have fuel, spark and proper ignition timing.

Pop a plug, is it wet with fuel?

Do you have a spark tester? You test the old fashioned way by pulling a spark plug, reconnect to its plug wire, lay it on the fender well and crank it over to see if it sparks at the electrode.

If it's getting fuel and has spark, then check the timing. Get the front most piston (#1) to TDC (on the compression stroke) and pull the distributor cap, see if the rotor is pointing anywhere near tower 1 (where the #1 plug wire goes). There are many threads on this board for finding TDC.

Do the spark and fuel tests first, might be simple.

brian

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"did hear something sucking"? Did you install the distributer at #1 cylinder compression stroke, or 360 degrees off at the exhaust stroke? (Ask someone who learned the hard way. )

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)