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 Post subject: Hei conversion
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 4:14 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:14 pm
Posts: 17
Car Model:
I'm drawing blanks here. I'm almost finished with a project truck I started almost a year ago. Going to do the HEI conversion, but my question is...How does this effect alternator wiring? Its an 82 slant in a 70 Swepty with a 2 blade one post alternator with a Painless harness. Red wire to the post, white to silver blade, brass colored blade to ground? I haven't seen any mention of what to do with the alternator wiring after putting in an HEI system. Might be I'm just tired and missing something.

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AlaskanMopar
1970 D200
4wheel disc Conversion
Skyjacker 2" Lift


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 4:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Why do you think something needs to be done with the alt wiring?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
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 Post subject: Re: Hei conversion
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 4:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
I'm drawing blanks here. I'm almost finished with a project truck I started almost a year ago. Going to do the HEI conversion, but my question is...How does this effect alternator wiring?
It doesn't. The alternator doesn't know or care what kind of ignition system you have.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 5:18 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2014 7:14 pm
Posts: 17
Car Model:
I mention this because according to the 70 wiring diagram the light green wire gores to the alternator regulator(term used on the diagram(voltage regulator
/)), black off the alt regulator is pigtail to a red wire going back to the ballast resister on one side then on the other side pig tailed to pink and red, red going to the coil. If I take out the ballast putting an HEI module in and coil...

Also am I getting mixed up in terms with voltage regulator, altenator regulator and ignition module?

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AlaskanMopar
1970 D200
4wheel disc Conversion
Skyjacker 2" Lift


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 7:20 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8695
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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I don't see the wire colors you are reffering to, except for the green wire.
Look at this diagram.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/7 ... usterA.JPG

I don't have a truck diagram available, but I am pretty sure the charging and ign circuits are the same, as are the colors.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 7:36 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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OK, I found a 70 truck wiring diagram, and I see where the problem lies.
1970 truck used a single blade one post alternator, and a mechanical regulator. The two blade alternator can be used by grounding one of the blades.

Leave the charging system wiring alone (keep it as the factory did it). remove the ballast resistor, and connect all three wires together. Use the red wire at the coil as the B+ to the HEI.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 7:50 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Disregard everything I said. I think I am wrong. Need to study the truck diagram a little more.

The problem I am having is which voltage regulator is used. I thought 1970 still used the mechanical voltage regulator, but the parts list shows the electronic regulator.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 11:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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You're making this a lot more complicated than it is. You don't have to, and shouldn't, change any of the charging system wiring. Leave it alone. Don't touch the voltage regulator (which nobody but occasionally the people writing the service manual ever calls an "alternator regulator"). There is no ignition module to think about on your truck unless someone in the past converted it from the original points-type ignition to a Chrysler or other-brand electronic ignition.

Remove the ballast resistor and discard it. Connect to each other the two connections that used to connect to either side of the ballast resistor. Proceed as described at HEI upgrade article.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 1:04 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Posts: 8695
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Yes, agreed. My problem with the original description was the wiring colors. I see the truck diagram uses a different color on the voltage regulator wires then the cars.

Just discard the ballast resistor, and connect any/all wires together. The wire the originally went to the coil positive (+), is used to either power the HEI directly, or trigger a relay that powers the HEI.
Personally, I don't see the need for a relay, though some will disagree with that.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2015 3:35 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
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Quote:
Personally, I don't see the need for a relay, though some will disagree with that.
Nor did I, until my truck wouldn't turn off. :roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2015 4:53 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 10:02 am
Posts: 1817
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Car Model:
I agree with Charlie, I've done a HEI upgrade to four of my vehicles, never used a relay on any of them. I still own and drive two of them. I have never used heat sink either. I bolt them to the top of the inner fender, run two wires to the coil, two more to the distributor and fire it up.

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