I want to use some sound deadener in my 62 Valiant.

What is a good product to use on doors and how do you do it?

Do I need to clean the door insides first?

I am thinking of using a lead impregnated material for the floor and trunk (I believe this product was specially designed for sound deadening in trucks). I am interested in anyone with experience using this product and the soundeadening results.

Thanks

On my previosly owned 70 Dart I pulled all the sound deadening out of a 79 LeBaron parts car I had and put it in the Dart. It worked well. I would think you could find a car in the junk yard that was premium enough to have good material. Comercial products for this are very, very expensive. A cheap alternative is worth looking for.

I got rid of some of the boom from the back of this car by putting a 2x4 behind the seat fastened vertically between the package shelf and the two diagonal braces.

For the doors I am considering using self stick floor tile. Keep in mind this may promote rust, and will make your car heavier. Maybe coat the inner door skin with heavt brushable undercoat. I am interested in what others have to offer.

Sam

Sam

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Dynamat.

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Joshua

http://customcoatingswest.com/shop/heat-noise-reducer/

http://www.lobucrod.com

I used Summit's knockoff of Dynamat and am very happy with the product.

B

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These ones go to eleven...

Both of those look great, and reasonably priced. Thanks Reed.

Sam

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I have ben on the hunt for reasonably priced heat and sound deadening materials for my van for a few years now. Those two are the best options I have found. There is a place local to me that sells the HNR for $45 per gallon. Can't beat that with a stick!

The Summit copy of Dynamat is really good. Before that, I replaced all my window rubber. Cut the noise in half just by doing the window rubber alone.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Some newer cars have something sprayed onto inner side of door skin that looks like good old undercoating. Coating just a rectangular strip equivalent to about 1/3 skin's area centered would kill most of the tin-can tink when closing door.

Killing wind noise requires new gaskets, and window seals & track material. Sealing door with 6 mill plastic sheeting secured with 3M Strip Calk 08578 strips before attaching door trim panels will keep water & air from infiltrating cabin.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I used the Home Depot foil type insulation. It's cheaper and probably doesn't work as good as the legit automotive dynamat type products but it wasn't real loud inside the car to begin with anyway.

Ditto. I just did my friends 330 floor with it and it was really easy to cut and shape to the contours of the floor. The adhesive back was also a bonus. They sell a thinner sound deadener for door panels etc. The Summit brand knock-off is probably as good but I've never used it.

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I agree with the other members who said Dynamat. It works great and really quiets the ride.
I was watching Jay Lenos garage recently and he showed it being put into one of his restorations and he talked about how great it was too.

I can cut out all the noise by removing my hearing aids. Quieter than a Lexus after that.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

What about Arizona-style roof coating??? (In door panels.)

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)